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[T3] 67 Ignition Switch


the biggest problem is that i'm not SURE i have all the little parts.  when i 
was taking it out of the column, the electrical part came off, sending parts 
everywhere.  i have two ball bearings or different size, a contact plate and 
a thin shim , and the insulating end part.  my wires on the end are COOKED, 
but those would be easy to resolder with new ones.  

so, would fixing that solve my spring return problem, or is that in 
mechanical part?  i'm thinking it's in the mechanical part.  any suggestions 
for taking that apart or things i need to be careful of if i wanted to fix 
that return spring?

thanks, it's good to know someoe has done this.  we 67 people have to stick 
together if we're gonna make it...

later,

dan

p.s. looks like i'm not getting list responses, but i'll try subscribing 
again.

-------------------
Daniel M. Hoopes
dan1@hoopes.net
801-836-3411 cell
652 South 1050 East 
Orem, UT 84097
-------------------

To: <type3@vwtype3.org> 
Subject: Re: [T3] 67 Ignition Switch 
From: "Everett Barnes" <everettb@thesamba.com> 
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 17:49:47 -0700 
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> I just checked the archives and couldn't find anything helpful.  All I
found was that people had the same problem as me.  So, does anyone either
know how to fix the electrical contact/movement part of a 67 ignition
switch, or does anyone have a new/good used one?  I wouldn't mind a
good/used one because I could switch the keyed part from mine to it.
>
I have an NOS replacement but it's really expensive.  Email me if you like.

I have never replaced an ignition though, I have always been able to
disassemble and repair them.

If you remove the entire assembly and remove the side with the wires, you
can figure out how it works.  Assuming you have not lost any internal parts,
clean it up and reassemble it, then make sure the little tabs are holding
the wiring section in tightly, they come loose over time so the internals
shift around and get scrambled.

Before you reinstall the switch, test the positions either with a battery or
a multimeter to make sure the on and start positions work as expected.

I probably made it sound much simpler than it really is.  I plan to take a
bunch of photos next time I repair one.

--
Everett Barnes
everettb@thesamba.com
http://www.thesamba.com


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