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Re: [T3] automatic drive plate lock


I've never had a problem getting them off using a penatrating oil and an air
wrench; however, I was a bit worried about how I was going to torque it
properly when replacing it.  Pb Blaster worked best for me.

Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: Russ wolfe [mailto:russella@prairieinet.net]
Sent: Friday, January 31, 2003 11:23 AM
To: Type 3 Mailing List
Subject: Re: [T3] automatic drive plate lock


On Fri, 2003-01-31 at 09:47, Jim Adney wrote:
> On 31 Jan 2003 at 7:37, Vlach, Joe -CKHS wrote:
> 
> > That's the logical answer...but is the torque a specific setting.  That
is,
> > is it just you'd better get it tight?
> 
> I think 225 is the "official" number, but there's clearly some latitude
around 
> there. Too loose is an obvious problem, but too tight can also strip out
the 
> threads. If you ruin your crank at this point that will really "make" your
day.
> 
> There ARE other good solutions to this problem. I use a long piece of
angle 
> iron which has 2 holes drilled in it to match to 2 of the drive plate
holes. 
> It's about 8' long and I just let the other end push against the floor.
That 
> works fine.
> 
I ran into this the other day takeing the flywheel off my '66 engine.
Had the flywheel locked (with the proper tool) Tried using my 3ft 3/4
drive breaker to break it loose. Wouldnt budge. Tried both of my impact
wrenches, and they wouldn't break it loose. Had my wife come out to help
me hold the engine down, and put a cheater pipe on the end of the
breaker bar. It finally came loose.
I calculated the torque required to break it loose. 5ft bar with my 250
lbs on the end. I think that comes out to about 1250 ft lbs.
There is going to be some "inertia" friction involved, but that would be
close.

-- 
Russ Wolfe
'66 FB MT
'71 FB AT 
'65 Bug (not running)
russw@classicvw.org
http://www.classicvw.org




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