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Re: [T3] '67 Ignition switch problems

Your endcap is repairable, but add a relay under the dash to take the
soleniod current or the repair will burn up quickly.

The return spring is in the absolute bottom of the assembly... hidden
underneath so you have to take everything apart to get to it.  As I recall
there was a pin to pull... but check the archives, I wrote this up once but
its been too long since I did the one on the Notchback to remember exactly
how to do it.


Keith Park

Top Notch Restorations
71 Squareback
65 Notchback
65 Squareback
75 Opel
87 Golf
88 Rx7 10th Anniversary

----- Original Message -----
From: "Daniel Hoopes" <dan1@hoopes.net>
To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2003 1:56 PM
Subject: RE: [T3] '67 Ignition switch problems

> In case anyone remembers, I had the problem with my ignition switch.  It's
> 67, so I can't just go buy a new one.  I took it apart and put all the
> pictures up at:
> http://www.hoopes.net/dan/square/current.html
> Question #1
> I got a few responses, but one suggested that I drill out the knurled
> to get into the keyed part of my lock cylinder to fix the "return to run
> position" spring.  I couldn't ever find where the spring went, and that's
> the reason I haven't put it back together yet.  I wanted to kill that bird
> while the whole shebang was apart.  If anyone knows for sure where that
> spring is, I would love it if they could please annotate one of my
> from the above web page to tell me where to look.  I don't want to drill
> the lock cylinder unless that's where it is for sure.
> Question #2
> If you look at the pictures, you'll notice that my plastic end cap was
> fried.  I have resoldered the connections with clean wires.  Can someone
> tell me what the contact positions should be?  I wanted to test it with my
> multimeter on the bench before getting it all put back in the car.  So,
> got a red, a black and a red/black.  Which ones should be in contact in
> two different positions?
> The problem is, the cap is cracked so I'm going to use PC-7 to get it to
> stay in place in the housing.  That also means I won't be able to fix it
> again unless I break the PC-7, so I want to get the electrical connections
> working well before I glue it.  If anyone has a better suggestion for this
> ordeal, let me know.
> How about using a regular push-button switch instead of my key switch?
> Anyone found a good generic switch I could put under my dash, kinda hidden
> so I could just leave my broken one there for looks?
> Any help is greatly appreciated.  Stanley has been sitting for months now
> because I've been doing med school applications and haven't had a second
> get around to this.
> Thanks,
> Dan
> '67 Square, Stanley
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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