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Everyone, Well, I got all four injectors to work, all I did was switch the plugs on 3 and 4 and then test them with the key switched to "ON" and pressing the accelerator from the engine, eventually--not sure why--the other two started to spray. When I went for a test drive she was still really weak, probably because of a combination of the generator strap being too loose, bad timing, low idle (around 700 RPM), running hot, and a (possibly) defective distributor. Would this explain low power? Once I would drive for a while she would all of a sudden regain power and be like she should, but she stalled when I had to slow down to make a turn, and although would start and rev nicely in neutral kept dying when put into drive--I had to rev and then put it in drive (I know that's bad for the tranny) to get home (about 3 blocks). Since the AAR is basically a thermostat, why does the AT one require a wire to work? One of the bolts that was epoxied in for the generator strap fell out again, so I won't be able to start her until I get a countersink, which should be soon. When I was testing the injectors as I mentioned, all four injectors sprayed at the same time, should this occur? Also, when I was doing this, the MPC to the trigger contacts weren't attached. That's right, I noticed no difference when the engine was running and I sucked on the vacuum hose. I checked the hose and it is fine. The plate does move when I suck on it, but only 2 or 3 degrees. I have to see if the timing advances when I do this, and I'm going to try it again incase I didn't notice a difference because two injectors weren't working. And the number on the vac can arm is: 265. What is the part number for the 009 Bosch distributor I need? Even if I don't need a new one altogether, I would like to replace this instead of a bunch of parts of the old one, besides I was told that the new Bosch has more power. I attempted to reposition the distributor drive shaft since right now it points at #4 when in TDC #1--it is in nearly the same position, is this normal? I don't have the pieces that are necessary for kickdown on the accelerator--I will have to buy and install them eventually. The flaps are there and wired open. Could the tin piece I'm missing around where the SPs go in be the cause? I do have the front cover plate, but should there be an ~inch of space between it and the body of the engine compartment; i.e. should I be able to see the tranny from the engine compartment? Here are the resistance results for the SP wires without the SP connectors, from longest to shortest: 1017; 994; 1042; 970. Does it matter which wire goes to which SP? What should the resistance for the wire to/from the coil be? I got infinite with my voltohmmeter set on 2000K ohms. Let me know if my posts could be distilled even more, I'm really trying=) Sincerely, Christopher J. Valade 1970 Squareback (AT, FI, w/1972 originally dual carb engine) -- Rosie ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org