[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] [New Search]

Re: [T3] Severe engine problems...?


On 7 Aug 2003 at 22:25, Chris J Valade wrote:

> I had also redone the timing
> via the static timing method and 5 degrees off of TDC, adjusted the
> valves, cleaned the spark plugs,

Do the timing with a timing light and the Bentley. Follow EACH step. You should 
have a dist with vacuum advance and retard, AND a mechanical advance. Make sure 
that each is working. To test the mech adv, grab the rotor and twist it CW. It 
should turn 1/2 inch and stop, and should snap back smartly when you release 
it.

>         I finally decided to take her for a test drive around the
> neighborhood and here is what I found: even though I warm her up for a
> good 2 or more minutes she goes about 10mph at full throttle then inches
> her way up very slowly, until, all of a sudden, bam! the engine is clear

Check each cylinder by pulling off each spark plug wire from the dist cap, one 
at a time, to see which ones are actually running. Normally, pulling off each 
wire should cause the same drop in rpm, meaning that that cylinder is 
contributing the same as each of the others.

>  When I went to change the valve cover gaskets I decided to check the valves
> while the gasket remover was setting in and doing its job to remove the glue
> and #4 had tightened up about .002" since I adjusted it last night! In other
> words, it went from .006" to .004", and the .004" feeler scraped through, it
> didn't slide or fall through. 

The valves should only be adjusted when the engine is dead cold. The clearances 
change as the engine warms up, so adjustments done wrong will leave you with 
the wrong clearances.
 
>         She also seemed to be a tad hot when I was looking at the engine,
> but then again I have nothing to compare to so these are mostly
> assumptions, here are my reasons for thinking this: the gen pulley
> housing was quite hot as was the air cleaner (I tend to think this is
> normal, but uncertain), then the front part where the engine lid clips
> into was too hot to touch, the rest of the metal rim that the lid lays on
> was hot but not as hot as the front part.

I wouldn't expect any of these to be hot.

>         Good point about how it may be dangerous to use an oil flush
> product without having a filter!  How would I install a filter anyhow?

Full flow filtration in a type 3 engine can only be installed in the course of 
a complete engine teardown and rebuild.

>         It turns out the rubber boots I mentioned for the SPs were melted
> since that sheet metal which makes the hole small enough to fit the SP
> but not the boot is missing, so I had those boots pretty much on the
> cylinder heads.

You'll need to replace this missing tin. Having this missing allows air to leak 
out of the top side of the engine before it has pushed thru the heads and 
cylinders from top to bottom. The end result is that the engine runs too hot. 
Of course if your flaps are closed this won't matter because you won't have any 
air blowing there anyway, which I suspect is your base problem.

>         I believe the flaps are wired open, but I will have to take the
> pulley housing and fan housing off to check, unless you know a quicker
> simpler way...?

Look along the front of the fan housing. You will see a ~1/4" rod running from 
side to side; that's the shaft that the flaps are attached to this rod rotates 
to open/close the flaps. Remove the generator. Stick your finger down the hole 
that is under the generator and feel the flap. When you reinstall the generator 
make sure the large hole on its side points straight down over the hole in the 
fan housing.

>         The instructions Bentley gives to time the engine don't seem so
> complicated, disconnect and plug the vacuum hose, the use a strobe timing
> light so it matches with the 5TDC mark...is that what you were referring
> to?

Yes, but there are several more steps to it for the 72 instructions. Follow 
them all!

>         This Saturday I plan to go down to one of the MWAPs and talk with
> the mechanics there since I was told by some other MWAP employees that
> they love to just chat and are very supportive of VW owners.  I'm
> basically talking with anyone who knows anything about cars and better
> yet about air cooled VWs for ideas.

This COULD be good, but remember that EVERYONE has an opinion, but not all of 
them should be given the same weight. Most people you find will never have 
worked on a type 3, and fewer still will be familiar enough to know the 
differences from a beetle. 

The most common response you'll get will be to remove the FI and install carbs. 
When you get this, simply smile, thank them and move on. It just means that 
they don't know anything about the FI and would be more comfortable with the 
carbs.

-- 
Jim Adney
jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711-3054
USA

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org


[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] [New Search]