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Mark, Jim, et. al.; The pressure sensor does hold vacuum, and I also tested the fuel injectors by removing them then having my father turn the ignition to 'ON' to let the fuel pump run, I had him do this 4 or so times to make certain and not a drip came out, I then pressed the nozzle with my nail and gas did come out. As regards the oil, how do I know if there is fuel in it if all oil smells of gas after running through the engine? I was pondering the amount of crud in the oil and even the fuel and I think it may be because for a while the timing was correct enough for the engine to start, but not as it should be. Also, when I had left the valve cover off of #3 and 4 I lost about a quart and a half and replaced it ASAP--could this perhaps explain why there two substances in the oil which haven't mixed? Even if it is the same brand and weight (Castrol HD 40W)? I don't see how, but I figured I would ask. Also, is it possible that the oil is pretty near black from the dust and heat of leaving the valve cover off during operation? I did a little experiment and noticed that a fuel/oil combo makes the mixture darker than either the fuel or the oil, am I just imagining things or could this be another factor in the oil's color? Further, perhaps the PO used different oil (actually, his mech always changed it, so he doesn't know what kind), and I don't know when he had his oil changed last before I put new oil in (I did this when it wasn't starting since before I knew anything I put fuel injector cleaner in the oil, ha!)--could this account for the dirt? And I noticed oil flush products, would it be too dangerous to run the car on idle for 5min without proper lubrication to flush it? If so, any recommendations on which product/brand/etc.? When I mix the oil around I the other liquid has a dark gray or silver sheen, would this be the 'metal flake' sheen you mentioned? I got this car about 4 or 5 months ago and I have never dropped it, rebuilt it, or anything. The engine, to my knowledge, was rebuilt and installed about 3 years ago and hasn't been overhauled or taken apart since. Nor have I cleaned the oil cleaner, pushrods, or the case oil passages--obviously since I've never taken the engine out of the car, let alone anything that extensive. What else besides faulty injectors could cause a rich mixture? Could it be the throttle switch? I mean those round boots which are on the plastic pieces that attach to the spark plugs, from what I remember hearing/reading they are to help prevent compression loss. What flaps? Do you mean the front cover plate and warm air ducts (chapter 3, section 6, fig.6-1 in Bentley's)? I attempted to locate the thermostat but with the aid of both the Bentley's and Muir I couldn't locate it, although I believe I found where it should be. It should be among the pushrods on the right/passenger side right? Or at least in that general region. I compared the picture in Bentley's (chapter 3, section 9.5, figure 9-7) and couldn't find any thermostat. Also, the warm air ducts look like they are only being held on by two bolts, the two closer to the center of the engine, with all the other bolt locations I could see lacking in bolts. If I am missing a thermostat and the warm air ducts aren't installed right, that could explain a lot! Am I not seeing something? Where should I look? What else can I check for to see if there is a thermostat, and how do I check if the flaps are movable? I was looking in my Bentley's and comparing, here are some concerns: temperature sensor I (ch4, section 7.4, fig. 7-6) in my car is missing the rubber seal, the wire also is quite thin (maybe 18 gauge) and has duct tape around two parts of it. Then in the same picture it shows the rubber boots I mentioned as being slightly melted, and I noticed something which would explain why mine would have melted: either I am missing that sheet metal or the boots were too small since they fit right down onto the cylinder head around the spark plug, which is where I had them. I will check for this sheet metal tomorrow and let you know. Yeah, the oil in the rocker boxes is a golden brown, some areas are darker than others and I would describe as a dark golden brown. Sorry, I meant that #1 spark plug was tight, and it turns out there was no metal pieces on it (whew!) it was just some sort of plastic, I think the anti-seize compound I use solidified. I decided to check the valves and adjust if necessary (they were adjusted much more recent than the last full oil change, so under 34miles). The valves for #1 and 2 were fine, but 3 and 4 were too tight to even let the .004" feeler go through--this is the valve cover I drove without. One of the adjusting bolts for number 3 required a little force to adjust, at first I thought it was stuck since #1 and 2 adjusted with next to no force, but I was able to adjust both 3 and 4 just fine. Also, the valve cover for 1 and 2 took a little force to get off after I had lowered the wire/spring/retainer, and then I smelt something odd which I can't really describe, but it may have been a coincidental scent which wafted into the garage at the right moment since I did smell it slightly when I went to the hood of the car since that is where my manuals were opened. I still plan to recheck the timing (for a 1972 it should be 5 degrees from TDC right? I believe it is the 5 degree mark which has orange/red paint on it, but how the marks are spaced it looks like a 1970 crankshaft pulley). Flush or just refill the oil (depending on what you guys suggest), then do a compression check, check for spark at the SPs, check to see if any smoke is coming out of the exhaust, check the dwell, and then see where it is idling at right now...if it will not die at idle that is! I'm also curious to see how she will act when I try to start her with everything readjusted and with new oil; I wouldn't be too surprised if she started right up, and if that occurred I wouldn't be too surprised if the same symptoms occurred after driving for a few miles=\ as Also, I forgot to mention that when I went to check the oil level after discovering that I had left the valve cover off white smoke or steam was coming out when I removed the dipstick, but the dipstick was far from too hot to handle. One last thing, I ended up lightly bending the screen on the oil screen, should I worry about this or so long as it is still intact it should be fine? Either way, I'm going to look into getting a replacement. Thanks everyone for everything! Sincerely, Christopher J. Valade 1970 Squareback (AT, FI, w/1972 originally dual carb engine) -- Rosie ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org