[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] [New Search]

RE: [T3] leaky oil cooler


My engine tin seems to be caught up somewhere in the rear between the rear
tin piece and the case.  Can't see another bolt and there doesn't seem to be
one in the Bentley manual.  I can attest that the work is a pain, but doable
without taking out the engine.  Why in the world did VW use circular flat
head screws on the tin rather than hex'd ones?!  Anyway... I love how the
manual says to get to the oil cooler, mearly just take off the engine tin.

Raul
68 Square (with stubborn cooling tin)

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Adney [mailto:jadney@vwtype3.org]
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2003 9:14 PM
To: type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] leaky oil cooler


On 3 Aug 2003 at 15:59, Rustad, James R wrote:

> Yes, Russ, I think all is ok now.  I saw the part no. earlier on the
> cooler and its a dual pressure relief valve case, so I am just about
> positive I have a late case and a late cooler, which would also be
> consistent with the year of the car.  So that would mean I go with
> thin seals and no spacers.  This is consistent with what I could see by
> inspecting and feeling.

Yes, you need the thin flanged seals which have the same sized hole on each
side with no spacers. I have seen these in black, red, and green rubber, so
color is not a useful indicator. They should be torqued down until you get
metal to metal contact, although I've often wondered if using a thin washer
here would be a good idea.

MOST of the gasket sets that I've seen do NOT include the correct seal for
this. This is most unusual because the seal you need is also the one
required
for all beetles from 70-on, and from 71-on each beetle needs 4 of them.

I'll send you my FAQ on this to reassure you.

> At least this time if it leaks I won't take the engine out. Though it
> looks pretty nearly impossible to get the tin off and replace the
> cooler with the engine in the car. Maybe easier in the end just to take
> it out anyway.

It is a pain, but you CAN do this with the engine in the car. It is actually
not that bad with a freshly built engine since none of the cooling tin bolts
will be seized up with rust yet. In my opinion this is easier than removing
the
engine to do it.

--
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org


[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] [New Search]