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Re: [T3] cutoff valve


On 2 Aug 2003 at 12:08, Brad wrote:

> I'm the guy with the type 3 engine in my dune buggy.  I have had a coupkle
> monthe s relatively problem free driving of my buggy.  However, I have a new
> problem.  I need some help.  FYI, it is a 1600 dual carb.
> 
>     The thing was running great.  then, it started running lousy.  I found
> that the right hand intake manifold was loose where it bolts to the head.  I
> tightened that up, and it was running great.  At least for a few days.
> Yesterday, the idle cutoff valve on the right hand carb must have just
> dropped off while going down the road.  It suddenly started running lousy on
> my way home from work.  I had no power to speak of.  When I got home I found
> that the cutoff valve was missing.  I went to the local dune buggy shop, all
> they had was a used one that was close.  They gave it to me.  It now has a
> bit more power, but under load when I put the petal to the metal, it has
> quite a bit of miss, and it starts popping in the right hand header.

There are both 6V and 12V cutoff valves, and each comes in a couple different 
orifice sizes. You know what voltage you need, so just unscrew the other one 
and see what number is stamped down hear the nozzle of the one you have left.

The used one you got may not be opening. You can test it by just pulling the 
wire off. If you do this with the ignition ON you should be able to hear the 
solenoid click in. If you do this with the engine running you should be able to 
hear the engine change speed dramatically.

These cutoff valves amount to a large weight cantilevered way out from their 
mounting threads. As such they put a lot of stress on those threads. When the 
carb came loose that made the situation even worse. I believe it is possible to 
even destroy the threads in the carb body where the cutoff valves screw in. You 
need to be really careful that nothing here is allowed to come loose and rattle 
around, because that's when the damage gets done. It might be worthwhile to use 
a bit of mild LocTite on those threads once you're sure you have the right part 
in there.

It's also possible that something else came loose when the carb was rattling 
around. You may have to pull the top off the carb and see if the float valve 
and main jet are still tightly in place.

>     I ASSume that the problem is the valve, as it is the only thing that I
> am aware of that changed between the time it was running well and now.
> 
>     Where can I get the correct one?

This is probably the best place to ask first.

>     Do I possibly have another problem?

Sure, the possibilities are almost unlimited, but it sounds like you're 
starting at the right place.


-- 
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************

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