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Re: type3-d Digest V2003 #79


Hi Everyone,
                        This is Manish again . Read some interesting comments on the issue of oil coolers . Correctly said that the main  cooling factor  is the flow of air . That is why it is important that the engine be kept clean from grime and mud deposits ö  a much neglected aspect . It helps in better dissipation of heat . Also read in some VW related FAQ on the Web  that  painting the cylinder fins black ( not the block ) helps in better dissipation of heat . Though there is no scientific justification provided ( perhaps concept of black body )  this would certainly help those with stock  cast iron cylinders -  prevention of rust ö by using BOSNY  SPRAY öON temp resistant Paint ( British Company )- costs around $ 7 in India .  This requires no primer and the only requirement is that the surface be clean and free of rust and be heated to at least 100 deg C . That should not be a problem as one can run the engine without the air jacket and the tins in the car itself  with the cylinders exposed . Formation of rust on the fins particularly in coastal climates  can  drastically reduce engine life . Coming back to oil-coolers , I canât say much about enhanced engines but for stock ones a suitable oil cooler does help . I have fitted one in my 1302  and am trying to figure how to fit one in my  71 squareback ( single carb ) ö any suggestions ? The main point to be kept in mind is not to fit a very large one as doing so would  definitely require more oil pressure . I have fitted a mercedes oil cooler of roughly the same size as a stock VW one  with fans .  point to be noted is that if oil temp is kept within respectable limits	the life of brgs is increased . It is a relatively simpler job to change the 4 cylinders and pistons  but a major and delicate one if the block also has to be opened up. Also  it is a misconcept that an additional oil cooler would improve  the oil change cycle . Stock vw engines ( except type ö4 ) donât have a sand seal and hence  in its absence the oil change cycle should remain un!
 changed 
. 					
On Wed, 09 Apr 2003 type3-d-request@vwtype3.org wrote :
>type3-d Digest				Volume 2003 : Issue 79
>
>Today's Topics:
>   Re: type3-d Digest V2003 #75          [ "Jason Weigel" <notchboy@cox.net> ]
>   Re: [T3] fuel injection problem       [ Russ wolfe <russella@prairieinet.ne ]
>   [T3] Got my car! (was, I'M BAAACK!!)  [ Aaron Clow <vw_variant71@yahoo.com> ]
>   Re: [T3] Magnet in sump               [ "Shad Laws" <shad@lnengineering.com ]
>   Re: [T3] Speedo rebuilding..          [ Scott Taylor <scottbtaylor@earthlin ]
>   Re: type3-d Digest V2003 #75          [ Scott Taylor <scottbtaylor@earthlin ]
>   RE: [T3] muffler?                     [ jason.smith@sarcom.com ]
>   Re: [T3] also new to the list         [ Per Lindgren <lindgre@online.no> ]
>   RE: [T3] Safety belts                 [ "Travis Keedy" <trav@keedyweb.net> ]
>   Re: [T3] fuel injection problem       [ Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
>   Re: [T3] Safety belts                 [ Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
>   RE: [T3] Safety belts                 [ Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
>   RE: [T3] fuel injection, starting     [ "Vlach, Joe -CKHS" <JoeV@cksd.wedne ]
>   RE: [T3] Safety belts                 [ "Travis Keedy" <trav@keedyweb.net> ]
>   RE: [T3] fuel injection, starting     [ jason.smith@sarcom.com ]
>   RE: [T3] fuel injection, starting     [ Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
>   RE: [T3] What I did over the weekend  [ "D. & L. Walters" <waltee@prodigy.n ]
>   [T3] Engine Oil & Cooling             [ "Carver" <carver@ncwebsurfer.com> ]
>   Re: [T3] Engine Oil & Cooling         [ "Toby Erkson" <air_cooled_nut@pobox ]
> > That's the part that amazes me. I'm only 5'10" and I have my seat all the
>way
> > to the rear. I'd really like to have it back another inch. I'd think you
>guys
> > would really be hurting for leg room.
>
>Its the long drives that slowly kill the knees! If my car wasnt so bone
>stock original Id bend the stopping tabs at the front of the rail groove to
>give me extra length. But it leads to chipped paint on the seat base and
>potential broken spot welds on the track.
>
>jason
>On Tue, 2003-04-08 at 22:12, VWDREW@aol.com wrote:
> > I am working on a 71 Squareback with FI.  I have determind that im not getting any power to the fuel pump.  So far I have replaced both of the relays for the fuel pump, but to no availe still no power to the pump, I've check the wirirng for both relays and there right.  At this point im at a loss at to why im not getting any power from the fuel pump relay to the fuel pump. As for the fuel pump its dead so that will be next to replace.  But I could use some ideas on why no power to the pump.
> >
> >
>You realize, that the pump only gets power for about 1-2 seconds when
>you first turn the key on. It will restart, when the engine starts
>cranking or turning over.
>To check the pump itself, try hot-wiring it and see if it runs. Do you
>hear a double click when you first turn the key on. Check the wiring to
>the relay under the back seat. That is the main power relay for the FI.
>
>--
>Russ Wolfe
>'66 FB MT
>'71 FB AT
>'65 Bug (not running)
>russw@classicvw.org
>http://www.classicvw.org
>
>
>--- Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> wrote:
> >>> Type 3 content: The list seems pretty quiet the
>last few days. The northern midwest and east got snow
>again yesterday and so maybe most of us just kept our
>type 3s off the streets until the salt dissipates. It
>should be warm outside soon and I'm eager to start
>getting some actual car work done. <<<
>
>Warm? What is warm? I can't recall... drizzly, snowy,
>cold in NY today...  Luckily the storms (more later
>this week I hear) held off until after I picked up my
>new Squareback (my first Type3)! Towed it back on a
>U-Haul auto transport in Saturday's drizzle. Cleaned
>up the inside on Sunday... Vacuumed up about a pound
>of rat turds from various areas. The space between the
>hood seal and the fender lip had a lot of tree leaves
>& decayed stuff caked in, which I gather is also in
>the typical drain spots as the carpet under the
>passenger mats was pretty wet. Hopefully it will be
>sunny next weekend so I can unplug the drains & get
>the car running again.
>
>I am so psyched to get started... And Jim's advice to
>someone else about a month ago was appropriate -- it's
>so easy to get distracted by all the things I want to
>do with this car... Tough to focus on only what
>*needs* to get done...
>
>I started a section on my website for my new family
>addition (addiction?)...
>
>http://www.tiserves.net/vw/ -> goto My VW's.
>
>Aaron
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do you Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more
>http://tax.yahoo.com
>Hello-
>
> > I'd always been told that magnets were much less common in engines than in
> > transmissions because most of the parts that wore in an engine were non-
> > magnetic. I think the rings and cylinder walls are the sole exception to
>this.
> > I have some really strong magnets I should try this with.
>
>DANGER: Do NOT put a "really strong" magnet on your engine!
>
>If you put a "really strong" magnet on there, then there's a good chance
>that some internal parts of your engine will become magnetized due to
>movement in the permanent magnet's powerful field.  When the internal parts
>of your engine are magnetized, you have a HUGE wear problem.
>
>Little, baby-sized ones to pick up crud are fine.  Although, as you've
>pointed out, the majority of the wear particles (not to mention dirt and
>blowby particles) are diamagnetic.  A filter is still a far better way to
>go.
>
>Take care,
>Shad Laws
>LN Engineering - Aircooled Precision Performance
>http://www.lnengineering.com
>On Tuesday, April 8, 2003, at 10:27  AM, Magnia, Martin wrote:
>
>>Did we ever come to a conclusion of what is a good color to
>>paint the bezels ?
>
>Either Krylon or Rustoleum (can't remember which) offers something called Dull Aluminum which is a really good match of the original paint.
>
>>Is there anyway at all to bring back the plastic faces?
>
>Most plastics suppliers will have a product called Brillianize which works miracles as long as the scratches aren't too deep.
>
>Scott
>62 343, 65 361
>On Tuesday, April 8, 2003, at 07:26  PM, Jim Adney wrote:
>
>>On 8 Apr 2003 at 16:55, Jason Weigel wrote:
>>
>>>>I wear a size 14, and don't seem to have any problems. Yes, it is
>>>>tighter than my Dodge truck or my wife's Jeep, but otherwise no
>>>>problems. And I have driven VW's since 1964.
>>>>
>>>Im in the same boat or boats :) as Russ. And at 6'5" the room compared to a
>>>T1 is why I chose the T3.
>>
>>That's the part that amazes me. I'm only 5'10" and I have my seat all the way
>>to the rear. I'd really like to have it back another inch. I'd think you guys
>>would really be hurting for leg room.
>
>I'm 6'3" and I could really use that extra legroom, and ever since I had my seats reupholstered I've had a headroom problem too. Still, not as bad as my girlfriend's Volvo, which has no legroom or knee room (monster console). You'd think a Scandinavian auto maker would keep tall drivers in mind...
>
>Scott
>62 343, 65 361
> > As Toby eluded to , another car went under the blade this
> > last weekend... Here is a photo of the motor that was pulled
> > from the car ....
> >
> > <http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/index.mv?photo+75366.jpg>
> >
> > The muffler is definitely different from all the others that
> > i have seen , I haven't had time to look for part numbers or
> > stampings yet.. Also check out the m-codes on the pulley
> > shroud....it to shows the "LO" code....
>
>
>I had one of these mufflers (now John J. has it), it had a 'made in Spain'
>stamp on it.  I think Everett has seen one of these at a swap also.  When I
>posted questions about it, I think we came to the conclusion it was just a
>replacement muffler available back in the day.
>
>
>Jason Smith
>71 Square FI AT
>72 Fasty FI AT(at the crossroads)
>http://jasontsmith.tripod.com/vw.htm
>Widoidricsas@aol.com wrote:
>
>>Is there any consensus about upgrading a stock squareback exhaust? I'm thinking header of some sort, in an obvious V-8 flashback. 
>Well, I guess there are as many opinions on this as there are subscribers to this list. My personal opinion is that the stock exhaust robs a lot of power from the engine, I would reccomend going to an aftermarket exhaust if you want a bit more power from your VW.
>
>I really noticed this when I replaced my stock system with a single "turbo" muffler. And I'm not talking about the butt-feeling either, as I actually noticed higher speed up this hill I drive everyday. I cant remember exact nuimbers today, but I believe I managed between 5-10 kmh higher speed up this hill with an exhaust system with better flow.
>
>PerL
>73 Variant L
> >It's amazing how nice they become after spending 15 minutes in a bucket
>full of soap
> >and water.
>__________________________________
>
>My car came with no belts at all (never installed far as I could tell), I
>bought a set of T3 Non-Retractable (for my 66) belts from a swap meet.  I
>spent a couple of hours soaking in warm soapy water, cleaning, repeating
>(you wouldn't believe how black water becomes w/ 37 years of dirt) till they
>were relatively clean.  Well, recently, while trying ADJUST the passenger
>belt it snapped.  Is it possible the soap and water treatment aided in thier
>demise?  Or should everyone be worried that their own belts will not
>actually do their job if god forbid the time comes?
>_______________________________________________________________
>
> >I would avoid aftermarket belts because you probably won't find ones that
>fit correctly.
>________________________________
>
>I disagree w/ this.  Some of you might remember I was asking a few weeks ago
>about putting Honda belts in, to attach to my Acura seats, I decided you
>were right that was a bad idea as I would need to fully trust my mounting of
>the seats to hold my a$$ in the car.  My solution ended up being a set of
>the fixed (non-retractable) belts that are commonly available in the
>catalogs (the ones w/ the wolfsburg logo on the clasp).  They may not be
>"correct" and since they were given to my be a club member they don't
>necessarily match the color of my car, but I'll tell you the new webbing and
>attachment certainly feels more secure than what I had before.
>
>Just my $.02
>
>Travis
>'66 Fasty
>On 8 Apr 2003 at 23:12, VWDREW@aol.com wrote:
>
> > I am working on a 71 Squareback with FI.  I have determind that im not
> > getting any power to the fuel pump.  So far I have replaced both of
> > the relays for the fuel pump, but to no availe still no power to the
> > pump, I've check the wirirng for both relays and there right.  At this
> > point im at a loss at to why im not getting any power from the fuel
> > pump relay to the fuel pump.
>
>When you turn the key ON you should hear a relay click, then, about 1 second
>later you should hear another relay click. Do you hear these clicks? If you
>don't then the FI system is not working right and it is probably not asking for
>power to be sent to the pump.
>
>Let us know what you hear and then we can guide you on further troubleshooting.
>
>--
>Jim Adney
>jadney@vwtype3.org
>Madison, WI 53711-3054
>USA
>On 8 Apr 2003 at 22:13, Russ wolfe wrote:
>
> > On Tue, 2003-04-08 at 21:26, Jim Adney wrote:
>
> > > If yours are damaged. I would look for some type 3 or beetle belts. There are
> > > lots of places in Hemmings motor news which advertize seat belts and I've
> > > always wondered if they could just replace the webbing on our belts. That
> > > should be quite reasonable if that's what you need. I would avoid aftermarket
> > > belts because you probably won't find ones that fit correctly.
> > >
> > The reason you can't just get the webbing replaced, is because there are
> > too many lawsuits. No upholstry shop want the liability, of re-sewing
> > them.
>
>You may be right, but even NEW belts have to be sewn by SOMEONE.
>
>Along the same lines, I was looking for someone to make reproduction overflow
>hoses. I had someone north of here, but they seem to have gone out of business,
>so then I found someone in Cleveland, but they backed out when they realized
>that this was for an automotive application associated with gasoline. I'm still
>looking. I will probably check out a Hemmings myself to see who does this for
>the automotive repro trade. If anyone has any good leads I'd be pleased to hear
>about them.
>
>--
>Jim Adney
>jadney@vwtype3.org
>Madison, WI 53711-3054
>USA
>On 9 Apr 2003 at 8:05, Travis Keedy wrote:
>
> > My car came with no belts at all (never installed far as I could tell), I
> > bought a set of T3 Non-Retractable (for my 66) belts from a swap meet.  I
> > spent a couple of hours soaking in warm soapy water, cleaning, repeating
> > (you wouldn't believe how black water becomes w/ 37 years of dirt) till they
> > were relatively clean.  Well, recently, while trying ADJUST the passenger
> > belt it snapped.  Is it possible the soap and water treatment aided in thier
> > demise?  Or should everyone be worried that their own belts will not
> > actually do their job if god forbid the time comes?
>
>I really don't think the soap and water would hurt the webbing. But it is well
>known that the webbing can age and deteiorate. I think strong sunlight, heat,
>and dirt can make this worse. The dirt in the
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