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Thomas Ainlay wrote: How can I lock the flex plate so that the gland nut can be removed and later re-installed? Thomas ---------------------------------------------------------- I have used Lock Tite before and it is very strong but I have had experiences of it cracking when it gets old maybe after overheating, when I have gotten to it. When cracked it did not seem to hold the nut as hard as it should. Then I used Permatex# 2 , this was a bit mistake. It was so permanent that I broke part of the nuts head and had to use a hack saw and a chisel to get it out by chisel turning. The next and final stuff I used, was Silicon rubber (the red kind) , this stuff stays mushy after some good mileage, does not burn or crack. Removal still needs lots of leverage since it is still torqued to 250 pounds and this stuff acts as lubricant and it may get tighter. My mode of tightening is a big torque wrench with my breaker pipe/bar or my electric impact wrench from Sears. To remove, I use my big breaker pipe or the impact wrench. Reguardless of what I use, the nut is still very very snug to turn, even if 1/4 is is still inside. This material would keep the nut from working itself loose. When the nuts off I can see rubber in the crank hole and on the nuts thread, got to be cleaned for reinstallation. This also keeps oil from seeping down the thread. These are my two cents, some folks may disagree or be shocked on what I use. LEON MARTINEZ SAN DIEGO AND TIJUANA ------------------------------------------------ To unsubscribe, E-mail to: <type3-off@vwtype3.org> For more help, see http://vwtype3.org/list/