Re: [T3] windshield trim

["matthew jones" <m@t3fj.freeserve.co.uk>]

<x-charset iso-8859-1>I recently did a Golf rear window with normal parcel string (aout 1/16")
liberally coated in washing up liquid, with no problems at all (2 people
though!). Fishing line may be a good alternative since its smooth not
braided, so less likely to saw the rubber ?

My '73 has the low-quality metalized plastic trim which has faded. The
tongue which fits into the rubber is central to the bead. On the bright ali
trim, one side of the "C" section goes down into the rubber so the groove
will be in a different place.

I have just taken the windows out of a 72, including still bright ali trim,
to fit to my car. The advice to fit the trim to the rubber first is good!
After 2 windows, I took the rubber out with the trim still in, so it won't
ever be bent out of shape. I hope the 2 trims I did remove can be made to go
back.

Are there any tips on how to polish the ali trim? I guess the bright finish
is thin and not very resilient ?!

Cheers,

Matt.
'73 1600E Fastback.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>
To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2002 8:05 PM
Subject: Re: [T3] windshield trim



> > But reinstalling the rubber is a bitch, requiring some heavy-duty string
> > about 1/32-inch in diameter and 1.5 times as long as the rubber that you
are
> > gonna install.
>
> 1/32 is too small. This job is much easier if you use something about
3/16"
> dia. I have used both light braided rope and medium insulation covered
> stranded electrical wire, both work fine, but if you go too small you run
a real
> risk of the wire/rope cutting into the rubber. In general, this is a
simple job for
> two people working together who understand what they are trying to do.
>
> Except for windshields. Those are much harder, simply because there is a
> MUCH bigger chance of breaking it.
>
> As for installing the trim, just remember that you MUST install the trim
before
> the window is in the car.
>
> Jim Adney



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