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Re: [T3] Preparing for engine removal - was: Questionsconcerning fuel injection


On 8 Nov 2002, at 6:03, Hugh Lawrence wrote:

> Now I find I have rust in my tank. As Jim says, I can probably just 
> clean it. I am confident enough this is the case that I will clean it.
> I find I have several options with that. 

> Here's a link where a few ideas get thrown around:
> http://www.356registry.org/Tech/tankrestor.html

As I looked at this link I was struck by the fact that the 3 posts here 
represented the middle and both extremes of the approaches to fixing 
ANYTHING. I think it would be good for each of us to think a bit about each 
of these and how each of our repair philosophys fit in here. The 3 approaches 
are as follows:

1) Study the problem and fix the part you have. Fabricate something to repair 
something worn if necessary.

2) Clean up the one you have, and it will probably be fine.

3) Buy a new one.

#1 is the labor intensive approach while #3 is the cash intensive way. #2 is 
middle ground. My personal approach is to start with #2, work my way 
toward #1, and then go for #3 only as a last resort, but I have to admit that 
this is not always the best way, because I often invest WAY too much time 
in lost causes before giving up. OTOH, I almost always succeed eventually, 
and learn something in the process.

Each approach has its advantages and disadvantages, however.

#2 is the probably the place to start if possible, but you have to decide which 
way to go once you determine that the most simple approach isn't going to 
work. This is basically a decision about money versus labor, but it is also a 
decision about learning or not learning.

Consider the decision about adjusting your own valves. If I don't know how to 
do this I can pay someone else to do it. This almost always works, and it 
takes none of my time. OTOH, it keeps me from ever learning about a 
number of fundamental principles of my engine, and costs me money each 
time I make this decision. If I do it myself I may take several days to do it the 
first time and I will almost certainly be uncertain that I have done it right. By 
the 3rd time, however, I can do this in 15 minutes, tops, and don't even give it 
a second thought. I've also learned which valves are the exhaust valves and 
how these parts all work together to make my engine run, and thie prepares 
me to understand more things.

OTOH, each of us has things that we would never consider doing ourselves. 
Most of us don't rebuild master cylinders, but wouldn't hesitate to buy a new 
one and install it. I don't know how to repair FI ECUs (yet,) but I have a 
supply of good used ones.

The 3rd post on that web site recommended that the only realistic way to fix 
up a rusty Porsche 356 gas tank was to buy a NOS one. I've got to wonder 
how expensive, or impossible, that might be for a 1956 Porsche, but I have to 
admit that at some point it might be the only option. Still, I would never 
suggest that someone not bother to even try to clean one out rather than just 
spend $s to buy a NOS one. I wouldn't be surprised if a NOS 356 gas tank 
cost $1000 today.  

In the end it may boil down to how much money you have versus time, but I 
will always argue that almost anything is worth at least TRYING to fix, rather 
than automatically shopping for a new one. For those of us in this list, at 
least the repair philosophy is consistent with our love of these old cars. If we 
didn't think old things were worth fixing, we would all be driving SUVs. 

-
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************

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