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Re: [T3] carbs question


<x-charset iso-8859-1>> I feel dumb.  as per usual, I'm at a loss, and find no help in any of the
> manuals.

please don't feel dumb.  myself, i am "mechanically-inclined" but i tend to
overlook the smaller, simpler things
quite often. :)

> I notice that, when peering down the carburetor throats, the 2 don't look
the
> same.
> The lefthand one has 2 metal tubes that angle down into the throat, one of
> which gives a visible squirt of fuel when you push the throttle down.  The
> righthand one has only one tube - and no visible squirt.

one of those tubes is from the accelerator pump, and failure to have this on
BOTH
carbs can lead to an imbalance in the acceleration of the carbs.  The carbs
need to be
synchronized and they cannot accelerate in unisyn if one of these "tubes" is
missing.
you'll probably need to find a donor carb for parts.

> LH carb is fitted with an electric bypass/pilot jet cutoff thingy,
connected
> to the coil.  RH one is not thus equipped.

this valve cuts the fuel supply off to keep the engine from running on or
"dieseling".
you will need this connected to both carbs.  many shops sell them for around
$8 each.
(they are not side-specific).

> Are these 2 features at all related?  Is it an asymmetrical design, a
> hapahazard carb conversion, or has the car swallowed a couple inches of
brass
> tubing?

no these are two independent features of the carbs.  the carbs are identical
but "reversed" in
design, left-to-right.  so it is possible that your car has swallowed one of
these brass tubes.
oftentimes, your engine will eventually "chew it" and spit it out the
exhuast (kind of like when
you're eating fish and you find a bone). as tiny schrapnel :)

> If the last, what am I up against?
> It was running... I only noticed the difference when I took the air
cleaner
> off for cleaning/oil change.  But now I'm hesitant to even try to start
it,
> for fear there's a chunk of metal bouncing around in there somewhere.

you'll have to remove the carb missing the tube and have a shop press in a
new tube.
can you see if the brass fitting holding the tube is in place or did it come
out too?
(you'll have to split the carb top-from-bottom to see this).
Since you'll be splitting open one carb, its not a bad idea to have both
carbs rebuilt
while you're at it.  i know of a fellow that does EXCELLENT carb rebuilding
(he has a
pro machine shop).  he did an  AMAZING job on my carbs (which had an
identical problem).

If you think the brass tube is still hanging around in the intake, you can
remove the carb and use a magnet
to fish out the fitting.  wait a sec, brass... magnet.. can't remember if
that works (see, I'm having a blonde moment already).
to take it step further, you can remove the intakes (easy once the carbs off
anyway) and see if you can fish around
inside the head as well.  if its in the cylinder or something, you'll have
to "run the RPMs up" to basically blow it out of the engine.
This is commom with small nuts and washers and such that fall inside the
engine.

Of course the 100% best thing to do is to remove the engine and split the
case to check for debris, but if
you're looking for a moderate solution... chew and spit (voila!)

Jason
68 Notch (Nadine)

I proudly buy my aircooled parts and service from...
The Bug Stop in Arlington (DFW), Texas
www.texasbugstop.com

----- Original Message -----
From: <Iamkeen@aol.com>
To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 8:15 AM
Subject: [T3] carbs question


> If the last, what am I up against?
> It was running... I only noticed the difference when I took the air
cleaner
> off for cleaning/oil change.  But now I'm hesitant to even try to start
it,
> for fear there's a chunk of metal bouncing around in there somewhere.
>
> any words of advice, encouragement, or admonishment are most welcome.
>
> --timmy
> '72 square
> '69 square
> Jax, FL
>
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe
>
>

</x-charset>

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