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Re: [T3] sanding

<x-charset iso-8859-1>A few suggestions on sanding:-

If it's a metallic with lacquer, you need to get all the lacquer layer off.
If it's original paint I suggest you aim to get most of the colour coats off
and leave the primer and rust-proofing system intact as far as possible.
Any sign of repair, bondo etc, investigate carefully.
Always use a backing pad on flat and gently curved areas - cork, rubber or
whatever you like.
You can get a large sanding backing 'plane' which is good for doors, roofs
etc to show high and low spots.
Be very careful about edges - they are often already near the primer layer.
You can get away with quite coarse paper - maybe 120 grade wet and dry.
Random orbit sanders work well on flat areas, but cut quickly so be
careful - maybe 180 minimum for power sanders, though as mains ones must be
used dry, the 120 will clog quickly and become less fierce anyway.
Use good lighting to help you see if the surface is flatted sufficiently or
if there are low spots - the high spots will already have shown up by going
through to primer early on.

Enjoy doing the rear fender louvres!  They're the best reason for having a
Notch, and the best reason for not having one, IMHO!

Don't think you are skilful enough to miss those pieces of aluminium trim,
fender welting or window rubbers - you won't!  Be warned - they are
difficult to replace these days.

As far as putting the primer on, it's pretty forgiving but must be the
correct primer for the top coats.  If it's two-pack top-coat, you will need
the breathing gear for the primer too.
I did the primer on the Fastback (first time I've painted anything bigger
than a plastic model plane!), and my body told me I shouldn't have done -
fast pulse most of the night and a definite not-well sensation.  PPG 2-pack
primer with inadequate fresh air.
All sort of safety rules surround these products, but they do a good job.

I'd say it's worth paying for a good job where your health and final car
appearance is important.  If not, use a system that is safe to do yourself,
but stick to the system.  2-packs tend to cure rapidly and generally go on
the old factory primer successfully, but you can't always be sure what's

I suspect professional advice would be to do a bare metal respray, but we've
all seen them with huge rust patches within a few years of looking new.

UK VW Type 3 & 4 Club
----- Original Message -----
From: <DandysRuleOk@aol.com>
To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2002 5:20 AM
Subject: [T3] sanding

> I have a 1972 squareback and I want to sand it down so I can primer it.
> doI need to know before I can start to sand it down/ how do I sand it
> Also what accesories do I need?
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe


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