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Re: [T3] Turn signal switch - lots of questions.

On 11 Mar 2002, at 1:26, Mike Wodkowski wrote:

> So I've been having this problem with my left turn signal.

> So it isn't the relay.

The switch lever assy. is pretty complicated and takes some effort to get 
apart and back together without breaking anything, but it's clear that the 
problem is in your switch. Either a contact has been eroded away so much 
that it only makes contact in a non-normal position, or something has worn 
that allows the lever to move too far. I would suspect the former first.

> And now my low beams aren't working. SNAFU.

So you are stuck in high beams?

> My concern is I lost a part somewhere, because the lever doesn't click when I
> try to work the lowbeams. Or would that clicking have actually been the relay? 

The clicking is the relay only. It is apparently not getting the signal that it 
needs to switch.

> Question 1: Bentley Electrical p. 31 says "the dist. bet. the steering wheel hub
> and the steering column switch must be 2 to 3 mm. To get this clearance, loosen
> the 2 screws that secure the switch and column tube then move the switch housing
> in the slotted holes."
>     What are they talking about? The switch casing at the column just left
> of the key? I have a plastic case thats held by 2 screws but there's only
> one slotted hole, and all that does is move the lower half of the casing. I
> don't understand this. And the turn signal switch itself is held to the column
> by 4 screws...Please clarify.

This 2-3mm is just to let the horn contacts work properly. They're talking 
about the 2 large bolts that bolt the steering column to the underside of the 
dash from underneath. Not sure without a refresher glance at my 72-3, but 
you may have to remove that cover to see those bolt heads. This has nothing 
to do with the high/low beams or the turn signal, however.

> Question 2: Are there supposed to be 2 copper contact strips under the large
> bakelite part on the right side (the one that contains the spring that holds the
> horseshoe shaped piece against the right wall of the switch). I only have 1.

They originally had 2 contact strips, but replacements came with 1, or 1 may 
have broken off.

> Question 3: What are those nylon pieces above and below supposed to do? It
> looks like they were held in place by a long gone spring. (Bentley shows the
> spring running up and down in the diagram 9-1, Electrical p 31)

The serpentine spring hooks between little protrusions on the nylon pieces. 
These protrusions commonly break off. I have extra springs, but not extra 
nylon pieces.

> Question 4: How did the cancelling cam function in relation to the
> mechanicals of the switch? I can't figure it out. Is the cam that little
> slider that goes left to right. It seems held in tension by a thin little
> band, but I can't see how that band and slider did anything to pull the
> switch back into position. Besides, what was supposed to push that cam back?

The cancelling cam pushes a center nylon piece either up or down, causing 
it to push one of the nylon pieces with the protrusions up or down. This 
catches the TS lever and pulls it back into position.

> (Of course here's where I'm an idiot because I'm only just now remembering
> that I DON'T have a 72 steering wheel. I have an old style with the horn
> ring.)

As long as your wheel has the little blade that reaches into the TS switch to 
trip the canceling pawl, it should be fine.

> Question 5: If I've really munged things up, anyone have a good turn signal
> switch for a 72? 

I have SOME parts, but no new switches. I MIGHT be able to rebuild your 

> Question 6: My electrical diagram does not have a color designation for the
> brown and blue (maybe its actually gray) wire which I think goes to either to 31
> OR S- (the horn?) judging from the wire rail markings and the diagram. How is it
> SUPPOSED to go? I now have brown-blue going to the horn and just brown going to
> 31. 

Too detailed for me to answer from memory. Sorry.

Jim Adney
Madison, WI 53711-3054

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