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RE: [T3] Welding and Drilling spot welds

<x-charset iso-8859-1>Yes, get the books!  I have two (different) ones and they were helpful.
Check into a community college program.  I received additional learning via
the Portland Community College program for non-credit (community) courses.
I learned to MIG aluminum and use a plasma cutter at -- get this -- the high
school that's about a mile from where I work!

A MIG is what you'll want.  I got a great little Craftsman 110v unit from
Sears (boy, I sure love credit!) I really like.  The stick/arc welder you
have is better for welding thicker metals like engine hangers.

I'm NOT driving down to Texas again!  Too damn hot for my blood and too many
damn crickets!  Jeeze, it felt like I was in a Steve King story... :)

  Toby Erkson
  '72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L, Berg five-speed
  '95 VW Jetta III GL 2.0L, P-Chip, Jamex suspension, 2.25" MagnaFlow
exhaust, etc.
  Portland, Oregon, http://www.icbm.org/

>-----Original Message-----
>Al, you're talking Arc welding, not MIG, right?  In my experience, it would
>be difficult to get an arc welder down to a low enough setting to avoid
>blowing holes in our 22 gauge sheetmetal.  MIG, no problem.  I've seen some
>tools at www.eastwoodco.com for arc welding sheetmetal, so I know it can be
>done.  Just haven't ever had success with it myself.  I wimped out and
>bought a MIG welder as soon as I could afford it.
>Eastwood has a welding textbook available, just like the punks at the local
>high school welding shop class are ignoring.  I got it, it's a great
>referrence for approximate settings for different metals, and most
>importantly, the methods...

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