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Forwarded to the type 3 list for general interest: On 10 Mar 2002, at 11:17, Jason T. Smith wrote: > Thanks for all the help. I did not know it was a generator, I thought > after certain years, the late cars had alternators? Not on type 3s. Beetles got them, and if I don't mention it several people will jump in and mention the odd Brazilian type 3s that got alternators, but all the usual German-made type 3s came with generators. > Oh, well. I had the battery charged at one of those battery stores for free. > This was a fairly new battery(less than 6 months), but I think the radio > wiring combined with it sitting during the winter (I only take it out a > couple times a month) discharged the battery enough for it not to get a good > charge in that 10 minutes of driving. Plus I let it sit for about two weeks > on that 10min., so that did not help any. If your battery sat for a long time, it can recover, but it will need to get a long slow charge. Don't take it to someone for a quick charge, that will just damage it. You can buy a cheap charger that has a fast and a slow charge setting and just leave it on the slow setting overnight. If you can get a charger that has a meter on it then you can leave it connected for a week if the meter shows less than 1A. Your radio should be wired such that the time/frequency display goes off when you turn the key OFF. If you do it any other way it will run your battery down while parked. Modern digital radios have 2 wires that get power: One should be connected to a fuse that is hot all the time and the other to a fuse that goes off with the key. > Speaking of which, I still have yet to figure out my FI system, > recently I was having more problems with the car just shutting off and not > starting again. The list had talked about temp sensors and cold start system > etc. But I haven't had the time to work on anything, it also too cold. Just quitting while driving is neither a charging system, nor a cold start valve problem. How cold is it where you live? > I had disconnected the Temp Switch and this seemed to work for a while then > it happened again. The car just dies and will not start. So I unplugged > the Cold Start valve's MPC and she started right up. And after I got my > battery charge she ran like never before, I mean smooth, just beautiful. Borrow a voltmeter and check what the battery voltage measures after a warmup drive. Measure it at medium RPM. It should be above 14V. If it is below 13.5V replace the voltage regulator with a genuine Bosch. When you get in the car and turn the key ON, you should hear a relay click and then hear another click ~1 second later. Do you hear both clicks? Let us know what you hear. > So, what gives? Could the cold start system really cause this much flux > in the operation. I know it is only suppose to work while the starter is > firing. I'll have to do a full system check once the weather warms up here > in OH. > '72 Fastback - ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ------------------------------------------------------------------- Too much? Digest! mailto:type3-d-request@vwtype3.org Subj=subscribe