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RE: [T3] Crank/Rod Balancing

<x-charset iso-8859-1>Just to further clarify, you simply can't add/remove material on the object
haphazardly because the item will become unbalanced.  You want the part to
be in balance/harmony/ying to the yang :)  When parts start moving in an
engine, they move FAST, and suddenly a tiny weight difference becomes a BIG
difference.  It's all physics and mind-twisting stuff like that with plenty
of math to scare little children away.

  Toby "I love physics but not the math" Erkson
  '72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L, Berg five-speed
  '95 VW Jetta III GL 2.0L, P-Chip, Jamex suspension, 2.25" MagnaFlow
exhaust, etc.
  Portland, Oregon, http://www.icbm.org/

>-----Original Message-----
>> Is this sufficient? Or do I need to get a machine shop to 
>balance my stuff?
>> And how do I go about this? Do I mount the rods of the crank and take
>> that assembly in? Are the rods done separately from the crank?
>I often do my own pistons since it only requires a good scale and an
>lathe. You just remove metal from the balancing knobs under the skirt. I
>to get mine to within 0.1gm.  
>Rods should be done "end-for-end" which means that you get all the small 
>ends to weigh the same and all the big ends to weigh the same...
>I have always sent my stuff to Berg, however, because the rotating stuff 
>takes special equipment to do correctly and they just charge a 
>flat rate...

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