[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] [New Search]
On 1 Jul 2002, at 19:09, Jacob Hoffman wrote: > It is a new genuine voltage regulator (the old one failed) and it does run > around 14 volts at med rpm. > I do hear both clicks. The relay is working fine. Okay, you've covered the 2 most likely culprits. How about the mechanical advance, is it advancing? You can watch it by revving the engine while watching the timing marks with a timing light. > Yeah, unfortunately last month the exact same thing happened, and I thought it > was a broken rod bearing or a main bearing or something very bad internally. > Turns out it was just the rivets that hold the flexplate together had become > loose. This makes me wonder if you have the problem that Leon so painfully figured out. If you have the wrong gland nut in there it will keep the drive plate from mating properly with the torque converter. The correct gland nut for an AT car is thinner and has no pilot bearing inside it; with this installed, the drive plate should rest right up against the torque converter and not have to be pulled there by the 3 bolts. - ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ------------------------------------------------ To unsubscribe, E-mail to: <type3-off@vwtype3.org> For more help, see http://vwtype3.org/list/