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<x-charset iso-8859-1>Steve Ayres wrote: => I think this was because the => carb for 1&2 had a sticking needle valve => which was causing them to run very => rich and so too cool and as they control => the cooling flaps, 3&4 were => overheating ... >This seems unlikely in the extreme if 1&2 were firing at all. There are >several ways for heads to come loose, most related to assembly error. Distinct possibility, but it wasn't loose when I first got the car and 3&4 were definitely getting VERY hot (feel the radiant heat) at startup. I drove the car on short journeys for about a month and a half before the head came loose- it had been standing at least 18 mths before I bought it. => I want to check the fuel level in the carbs. >The fuel level is set by the thick (about 1.2mm if I recall right) fiber >washer under the needle valve. No washer or a thin washer and your level is >too high. Be sure that the float is not leaking. Other than that there *is* >no adjustment. Don't try bending the float arm, whatever you do, you'll just >mess it up. I'm not sure of the quality of my replacement valves. Originally the valves in my carbs had alu washers- replacements fibre though. The floats didn't have liquid in them when I took the carbs apart. Don't worry, the Haynes manual is pretty explicit about not bending anything. I just want to eliminate this possibility from my list. => get the throttle shafts re-bushed, >If they need this, it's the most likely source of your misfire. What seems >like a tiny leak here will seriously affect performance, I guarantee. Have >you tried tracing the misfire to a specific cylinder or side? (You can use a >strobe for this.) Try the carb-cleaner test -- with the engine running, >spray around the butterfly assembly. If the engine stumbles, you've found >your leak. I was hoping they didn't need it but there was slop in both- worst on R. As it doesn't cost much I'll get it done anyway and hope it will cure all. Problem is I will have to ride my bicycle while its happening and its cold, wet and very windy at the moment ¦-( I believe it to be the R side- I tried squirting WD40 at the carbs but didn't notice any change- I chickened out quick though- its very flammable you know and so is the case apparently- is it true they spontaneously combust?!? ;-) >Some things you may have already eliminated or even written about here, but >humor me -- what fuel pump are you running? Is your balance tube present and >in good shape? What distributor, and what condition is it in? Fuel pump is brand spanking new el-cheapo Mexican T1 with nasty looking short push rod- replaced original (which was probably fine ) because I suspected it of leaking fuel into my oil- turns out I think that it was the very rich running 1&2 that diluted it.Balance tube seems fine- I replaced the bits of rubber tube. Dist seems OK apart from not being in correct orientation and is a 311 part no. Points are new Bosch and gapped correctly. >Once again, and not for Mark specifically, I'll add my carb rant -- the >difference between a set of PDSITs just running and running right is huge in >terms of performance and very subtle in terms of setup. If you can find a >guy who *really knows* to help you get them set up and show you how to keep >them that way, you'll be way ahead. This is arcane knowledge and not as >simple as it looks. When I bought my Fastback, one of the deciding factors was that the legendary Jay had a workshop just round the corner from my work in Deptford. Unfortunately as soon as I needed his advice, he had upped and left (retired), leaving no trace but a rumour that he was living somewhere near Brands Hatch. Haven't found him yet. I will have to learn the black art myself through patience and trial and error (and of course THE List) Thanks a lot guys for all the ideas, still in the dark but sure there must be a light close by. Mark Seaton Orange '73 1600TA London ------------------------------------------------------------------- Search old messages on the Web! Visit http://www.vwtype3.org/list/ </x-charset>