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<x-charset iso-8859-1>> You've obviously done a good job here as your numbers are quite > consistent. Your dry pressures were fine, so there was really no > reason to do the wet ones, since the wet test is only to try to pin > down the cause of a low pressure cylinder. Thanks for the compliment (for doing a good job). Since this is only my third VW rebuild, I'm still building confidence and every bit helps. > Sorry, I don't remember whether you have FI or carbs, but if this is > carbs then I'd take apart the left one and look for a reason why that > side was running rich. It carbureted with stock Solex 32 PDSIT's. Sometimes my right choke has been sticking, so I may opt to "disconnect" the chokes for a few days and see how she runs. When I say disconnect, I obviously mean turning the chokes until the butterfly stays engaged (open). The carbs were recently rebuilt, so I'm still not going to discount the possibility of bad needle valves, vacuum leaks or a worn idle screw. Speaking of idle screws, how far is "too far in" for the preliminary adjustment? i.e. is it safe to turn in the idle mixture screw until the spring is completely collapsed, or is that too far? And are those metal intake manifold gaskets any good or should I opt for rubber gaskets? (I prefer the rubber ones). Jason 68 Notch ------------------------------------------------------------------- List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org </x-charset>