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On 20 Feb 2002, at 17:58, JaransonT3@aol.com wrote: > I want to rebuild the engine on my 66 Squareback in preparation for the trip to > Parma for the Invasion. I know that I want to align bore the case, have case > savers installed, and have it drilled and tapped for full flow. What else > should I have RIMCO do when I send the parts out there? It is a stock 1600, > single port with dual Solexes. I am keeping it that way. What else should I do > to create a reliable daily driver engine? I am thinking counter weighted crank? > Maybe balancing of the rotating parts? New pistons and cylinders? What about > align boring the cam tunnel? Obviously new bearings. What about lifters? I > may go with a Pertronix ignition module. I am also going to have the heads > cleaned up and done by a friend here in the Detroit area. Align boring the cam tunnel is almost never necessary. This kind of question comes up often enough that I decided to write up what I do most of the time. Here it is: So you want to rebuild your engine. Here are a few steps you might want to consider taking. Plan to take a lot of time. If you can't afford a lot of down time for your car, buy a good core engine. Make sure that what you buy will fit your car when you're done. The late engines, 70-73 will fit all years and they have larger oil passages. Disassemble this engine. Remove all the external parts from the case, including the head studs. Clean the mating faces and reassemble the case empty, tighten the 8mm nuts around the edge, and do this test: Take your thinnest feeler gauge and try to slip it in between the case halves next to the #2 bearing web. If it fits, try tightening the main bearing studs/nuts around #2. If you have to tighten the nuts an appreciable amount and the feeler gauge is still loose in there, the case is shot and should be replaced. It is actually possible to fix this, but it is a LOT of work and is probably not worth it. Get the crankshaft journals checked so you know what size crankshaft you will have when you rebuild. Don't bother using any crankshaft that has been reground more than .010" undersize. If you have bad parts get replacements now, or incorporate their purchase into the order with Berg below. Good parts are worth a little extra, bad parts are often cheap in the short run and extremely expensive in the long run. RIMCO Send the case and rods to RIMCO. Ask them to align bore the case the minimum amount necessary. Ask them to provide a main bearing set sized to fit this case and the crankshaft size you determined above. If you want a full flow filter, ask them to drill and tap for it. Ask them to install case savers with the deep sink stud on #3; if you don't have a spare long head stud perhaps they can sell you one. If you have any thoughts of going oversize ask for 8mm case savers rather than the stock 10mm ones; if you do this you will have to buy a complete new set of 8mm head studs, nuts and washers. Send them your rods and ask them to rebuild them. Along with your parts, buy the following: cam bearing set, rod bearing set (specify size), 1 can of GasgaCinch, and 1 gasket set. I find that my shipments to RIMCO come back to me in almost exactly 2 weeks, including shipping, so their turnaround time at their shop is about 1 day. Gene Berg Enterprises When your parts come back from RIMCO, pack up the following and send them off to Berg: crank, flywheel, rebuilt rods, pistons, pressure plate, fan, pulley. These are heavy parts; pack them carefully. Ask them to (if your crank is std. size and still good) weld counterweights to YOUR crank, straighten, and polish, or (if your crank is std. and needs to be reground) exchange for a .010/.010 counterweighted crank. Take the resulting crank and balance it with your parts. Buy new stock lifters from Berg. I would reuse your original cam if at all possible. Buy a full flow filter kit if desired. Buy good valves, especially exhaust valves. Have someone who cares do your heads. I have a very good local shop here that does mine. Try to find someone in your area to do them for you. The original heads are worth preserving. Don't let someone talk you into swapping heads for a rebuilt pair; they will be a random piece of hardware, not the same as the ones you turned in and will never see again. - ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ------------------------------------------------------------------- Too much? Digest! mailto:type3-d-request@vwtype3.org Subj=subscribe