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On 15 Dec 2002 at 21:24, phil cain wrote: > I will still stick by my using the grease gun to > remove the pistons, it developes enough pressure to > un-seat the severely stuck ones, and it is most > important to clean the grease out when finshed(just as > Jim said Grease does not like the rubber parts). Most > grease gun hoses , with the grease fitting off the end > of it will screw into the brake calaper hole. I just > use this for the really hard ones that the master cyl > won't pop out. I don't dispute that this will work, just that it's dangerous because few people will go to the effort necessary to make sure that EVERY BIT OF GREASE is really cleaned out of all the little passages. The only way this could be done would be to separate the caliper halves, which you can do, but you won't find the bolt torque values in the VW manuals (VW says that these MUST NOT be taken apart.) I have taken them apart anyway, but I've gotten the torque values from manuals from other cars that also use Teves calipers. If you really want to do this, why not buy a cheap grease gun and just fill it with something like Crisco? It's no easier to clean out, but at least it won't hurt anything. BTW, Phil, have you really had calipers that you were unable to move by using the master cylinder? I haven't had to resort to that method in decades, but I had always assumed that it would work. I find that 100 psi is marginal, but I figure that with the MC I could generate around 1000 psi, which I assumed would be more than enough. If it's not, I'm going to have to rethink the jigging I'm making. If 1000 psi is not enough, I'm going to have to rethink my approach. -- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711-3054 USA ------------------------------------------------ To unsubscribe, E-mail to: <type3-off@vwtype3.org> For more help, see http://vwtype3.org/list/