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Re: [T3] Carb tuning

Hi Henrik,

> > ... the idle was way too high (about 1400), even after
> > letting the engine warm up well. It was also still
> > hunting so I assumed I still had the idle circuit tuned too rich.
> > I played about with it for a bit and this is how it goes now:
> You seem to have solved exactly the same problem that I have with my 1968
Notch. What did you do?

I am not quite sure which aspect of my problem is the same as yours. If you
mean  that it is hunting at idle, and you can't get the idle to go down
below 1400-1600 rpm without it conking out, then the problem is that the
idle circuit is too rich. I found that it is easy to make it too rich and it
is very sensitive to it. Is your '68 notch automatic?  Screw the volume
screws right in and then screw them out 1.5 turns. This should give you a
good starting point.

My volume controls are screws rather than knobs.  I use a watch-maker's
screwdriver, on which I painted a white blob, so I know exactly how far I've
turned it. A quarter turn this way or that can make a big difference.

> I gave up early using a tachometer for engine tuning, because it was so
> difficult to read. I bought a Optilux (made by Hella) engine tester
> ($100) which I think is very good.

Mine is an electronic tach/dwell metre ("engine analyser") which I bought
for $11 on eBay. It called a Mag ET905, and appears to do the job OK,
despite belonging to the cheapo segment of the market.

Daniel Baum
1969 Type 34 automatic

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