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<x-charset iso-8859-1>In my opinion an oil filter is always better for engine longevity. The screen just filters out the larger chunks of crap, but would leave all of the smaller particles flowing through the engine along with the oil. Use stainless steel hoses for a little extra insurance against possibly cutting a hose from road debris. You still need to ensire that they are out of the way so that they can NOT possibly touch the exhaust. That happened to me when I was in the middle of my engine break-in....luckily I spotted the problem before the hose burst, and was able to wedge something unse the hose to keep it off the exhaust, and finish the 20 min break-in. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dana Greeley" <greeley@pmel.noaa.gov> To: <type3@vwtype3.org> Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 9:33 AM Subject: [T3] Rimco & Berg cost estimates > Sorry, this got kinda long, please bear with me. > It's time to rebuild my engine. I searched through the archives > and see suggestions but no dollar estimates. > I'm a cheapskate and more specifically do not have money to > throw around. I have a local shop and an estimate from them > (they do excellent work but also charge for it). > > By the way, it is a 1600 from a '71 fastback with FI and stock > exhaust that I'm asking about. > I do not plan any high performance mods - just want a stock engine > that will last a while. > Therefore, could someone give me some rough estimates > on the following? I thank you in advance. You could also > reply back just to me (greeley@pmel.noaa.gov) unless > you feel your info would benefit the list. > > 1) Send the case and rods to RIMCO (from WA state). > > 2) RIMCO labor: Have them Align bore the case, provide a main bearing set sized > to fit this case and crankshaft. Install case savers with a deep sink stud > on #3. Have them rebuild the rods. > > 3) RIMCO parts: Cam & rod bearing sets and gasket set. > > 4) Send moving parts (Crank, flywheel, rods, pistons, pressure plate, fan, pulley) > to Gene Berg. > > 5) Ask Berg to counterweight crank, straighten if need be, and polish and balance with > other parts sent. > > 6) Did I forget something? > > Additionally - I'm not completely sold on the idea of a full flow > oil filter system. Do you all consider this a necessary modification > for a 1600 or is it something to be considered for higher > performance end types. The way I have it figured is, > if you change your oil every 2,000 miles > you should be ok with the standard system and screen. > I should add that I am leary of this modification as I lost a hose on a > 68 van that required dropping the engine to get to the connection. > This was in the tropical rain, in-between Antigua and Guatemala City. > Luckily it was mostly downhill and we had plenty of oil to keep > "topping it off" on our coast down to a covered parking lot. > But that's another story... > > > ------------------------------------------------ > To unsubscribe, E-mail to: <type3-off@vwtype3.org> > For more help, see http://vwtype3.org/list/ > ------------------------------------------------ To unsubscribe, E-mail to: <type3-off@vwtype3.org> For more help, see http://vwtype3.org/list/ </x-charset>