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On 13 Apr 2002, at 20:45, nathan howell wrote: > As I was timing it with and inductive timing light, I noticed that the number > one wasn't always firing. The light would flash for a few times then not for > one cycle then pick up again. I could not tell if it coincided with the > erratic idling. I clipped the light to the other three cylinders and no > misses. Could my coil be faulty, or maybe just a bad ground on the timing > light? I'd deal with this FIRST, as it is probably your problem. It can't be the coil, because that would affect all the cylinders equally. Here are some things to look at: VIsually inspect the dist cap, wire, and SP connector, inside and out, to make sure that there isn't a carbon track that might be shunting the #1 spark off an alternate path. Measure the resistance of the #1 SP wire. If it is infinite, replace the bakelite SP connector, which should measure ~ 1000 Ohms. Pull the SP and take a close look at it. If the gap is too wide adjust it. If the corners of the center electrode are rounded replace it. > I have my fasty all back together and there is still problems. It still > lopes and appears to be running pretty rich. All the connections look > good, but the passenger side injector plugs are a little loose, is there > a way to tighten them up? Do they have to go on in a particular > orientation? The plugs are keyed, but the injectors are not. Timing is > set to 0 BTD, as best as I could get it with it idling so erratically. > All the ignition components except points and condenser have been > replaced. Dwell is at about 44 degrees. I have not checked fuel > pressure, as I do not have a gauge. If you think it's running rich, measure the charging system regulating voltage: across the battery, after a warmup drive, at medium rpm. It should be slightly above 14V. If it is less than 13.5V replace the voltage regulator with a Genuine Bosch. The injector plugs do sometimes get loose, but you can't feel this with the connector terminals in their plastic bodies. If you do the stuff above and still have trouble, try this. It MUST BE DONE CAREFULLY, or you will do damage that you will wish you hadn't done. It does not matter which way each plug is plugged into its injector. Pull the plugs out of the injectors and look at the front face of the plug. You will see 2 spaces with the 2 connector pins in there. Each space is shaped just like the face of the pin, except that there is a little extra square space on one side of each. To release the pin, you have to reach in that extra space with a small tool and push the locking tang back against the pin so that the pin can be pulled out the back of the connector body. DON'T PULL HARD. It will come out easily when you get the tang pushed back right. Once you get the pins out, try pushing them onto the injectors. Now you can feel whether they make good contact or are loose. As long as they are not loose they are fine. Loose means loose enough to just fall off of their own weight if they were not attached to wires. If they are loose, you can squeeze them VERY SLIGHTLY until they firm up on the injector pins. BE CAREFUL, it is very easy to overdo this. Once you're done push the pins in the back of the housings such that the locking tangs face the release opening. Make sure they go in far enough to lock. - ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ------------------------------------------------------------------- Search old messages on the Web! Visit http://www.vwtype3.org/list/