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<x-charset iso-8859-1>Speaking from my own experience only. The carb linkage is a weak point and the one that's hardest to replace, particularly the linkage from the top of the carb to the bottom. None of the linkage is included with a new carb purchase, I know, I bought a set way back when. The ball joints wear out and occasionally will pop apart, leaving you with one functional carb! Unlike the ones on Van der Jeught Bert's carbs, originals have nothing but a knob of metal against a cavity of metal, no bearings at all of any material. Grease is your friend. There is a circlip within the female portion that snaps over the male portion, in an attempt to stay together. I would hate to have to find a replacement for that circlip, it would be a nightmare to replace, though I have had to bend then a bit to hold a smaller knob. This all tends to result in sloppy carb action, but since the accelerator is always in tension, it will settle into a good position while driving. Coming down from idle, and back up can be a bit inconsistent. Idle or at throttle is fine, the transition might be a bit rough. As for setting the linkages (going from memory, and it's been years since I've done it). Attach tach, run engine. 1) Set the low idle with no throttle (duh), assuring that none of the linkages pull on the carb end. Everything should be loose, or at least no tension. Use Unisyn to sync carbs. 2) Set at high idle. I use a 13mm wrench on the center nut of the pivot where the accelerator cable attaches. I add a piece of wire to the other end of the wrench and pull on the wire to get to high idle (900RPM???) and wrap the wire around one of the nuts on the rear of the engine hole. You can bend the wire a bit to fine tune the idle RPM. Use Unisyn to check flow, and adjust the length of the right hand throttle linkage with 6 & 7mm open wrenches. Check with Unisyn and repeat until flow is equal at high idle. 3) repeat step 1, to confirm idle is the same. If not repeat the remainder of step 1 & 2 again. Why should you have to repeat step 1 again, you ask? I think I remember that the adjustments to the carb itself is only done at idle, not at high RPM, but while adjusting high RPM, Murphy steps in and messes with things, and a lot of the time, the low idle changes, and needs to be reset. I would like to find out what parts, and where one can get the parts that Van der Jeught Bert used. They look great as a upgrade and replacement for the stock linkages. I would love to find a way to set something on the carbs, and be able to leave it there throughout the carb sync process, so I don't have to be jumping from one carb to the other, adjust this and that, jump back again from one carb to the other, and all the time hoping that I seat the Unisyn the same on each carb, the same each time. Jeff '67 Sqbk -----Original Message----- On 10 Apr 2002, at 9:28, Bert Van der Jeught wrote: > I once read that the stock connectionrods of the carburettors of the dual > set-up bend when the engine is hot. > Thus desynchronisating the set-up. > > 1. Is this true? > 2. What do you think of rosejointed(I think that's what they call) > rods. > > What do you think? > Unnessacary or an upgrade? Took me a minute to find the second page, but.... These look nice but I wouldn't think they'd make an important improvement. They look like they could increase the mass suspended off the carb linkage significantly and could thus increase shaft wear. I hadn't heard that this was a problem, but I'd like to hear what some carb folks have to say. ------------------------------------------------------------------- List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org </x-charset>