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Re: [T3] MC/brake lines


In a message dated 10/21/01 7:01:32 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
jadney@vwtype3.org writes:

<< You mean you don't have to pump when you're standing still???? In 
 that case, I'd take the rear drums off and make sure all the 
 hardware is in there right, especially the angled adjuster screw 
 slots. Then look at the front rotors to see if they have big 
 accumulations of rust in some places which might push the pads 
 back as the lumps rotate past them. If this were the case, their 
 might not be anything wrong with your hydraulics at all!!! >>

When I first get in my car(befor I start it) and hit the brakes they work 
great after one pump, once iI start is and my wheels start to turn the brakes 
go out.  when I come to a stop at a light they are the same as when I am 
driving.  why would my brakes work better when my car is off?!? Does this 
mean anything at all? I wouldnt know...Im new at this.

<< At this point, I don't think the order matters. What matters is "Do 
you see air bubbles coming out?" I generally use an 18" hose into 
the bottom of a liter pop bottle. Run the hose all the way to the 
bottom of the bottle so the fluid that accumulates there will keep air 
from running back up the hose. Form a small upwards loop just 
outside the bleed valve so that bubbles will tend to drift away from 
the bleed valve. Just open the bleed valve and let the person at the 
pedal pump continuously. You will see that the fluid moves mostly 
outward with small inward bits as the pedal comes up. You only 
have to open the bleed valve 1/2 turn. >>

I went and got myself a little hose to bleed.  You mean as long as the hose 
is fully submerged in brake fluid I can have the second person keep pumping?

Jeremy 
67sqbk
Tacoma








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