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RE: [T3] Followup: Cold Start Valve/Rough Idle @ Warmup


More follow up information... quite wordy, sorry.
  
> 
> We've had a couple of CSV questions lately, and I don't really keep 
> them separated. Still, disconnecting the CSV does not disable the 
> system completely. The FI wire to the started still has to be 
> connected to the right terminal on the starter, or the EFI will 
> continue to run rich.

Actually on my car, there are no wires to or from the CSV.  Just the fuel hose, which I
just replaced because it was leaking.  Perhaps this is why the car was idling rough?  It
wasn't doing this two weeks ago when I gave it a tune-up.  But it ran well for about 4
days after the tune-up so maybe I bumped a fragile piece of FI hose when looking into the
CSV initially and that did it... Since there is a fuel hose into the CSV but no
electrical connections, it makes me wonder is some fuel is always making past the valve. 
Is there a way I could plug this fuel hose safely to see if the problem then goes away? 
That would help isolate the problem.

Anyway.  I would like to re-hookup the CSV to it's electrical switch and get the system
working but the wiring harness is quite intimidating.  There is a "renegade" (i.e. cut)
wire from the harness that was cut and has electrical tape at its end.  I assume this was
cut from the CSV.  But it goes into the wiring harness and I loose track of it from
there.  I need to follow it through, check where it goes and look at the wiring diagram. 
But like I said, it's intimidating.
 
> 
> When you turn the key ON, the fuel pump should run for about 1 
> second and then switch off. If you don't hear this happen (ie, if the 
> pump continues to run) your wire is on the wrong terminal.

Pump whirs for one second.  I do this everytime I start the car.  If the car has been
sitting for a few days and I do not turn the key to ON to prime the pump it usually takes
2-3 tries to turn it over.  However, if I do prime the pump first by turning the Key to
ON but not over and then turn the car over, it starts immediately.  It just whirs for a
second then stops.  This seems okay.


> > They were pretty tight (#4 intake especially).  Setting them correctly has
> > lessened the problem a great deal.  
> 
> Are you sure you adjusted them correctly? The firing order is 1432 
> and the 4 cylinders are numbered like this:
> 
> 3	1
> 4	2
> 
> I only ask this because it is a little unusual for an intake to stand 
> out as the one tight valve. 

Yup, I double checked in both Bentley and Muir because I've heard of exhaust vavles being
tight (especially #3 on beetles) so I was surprised it was the intake valve on #4.  I
made a note of how each valve adjusted (especially #4 intake) so that when I adjust the
valves again shortly I'll see if they are still in spec or out.  I assume this will help
me catch a problem before it catches me.

Again, thanks for the help.  It seems that everytime I drive the car, something else
"goes" so the list has been very helpful.  Luckily, it is unseasonably warm this fall in
Chicago so I've been able to fix these mishaps along the way.

  -jim-


=====
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