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RE: [T3] Cold Start Valve/Rough Idle @ Warmup

<x-charset iso-8859-1>The TSV is designed to work anywhere (I'm from northern Canada)the
temperature is below 40 deg. F. And as Jim mentioned only works when the
starter is engaged by enriching the fuel for starting. If you live somewhere
that occasionally dips below 40F it is to your advantage to test and hook it
I tested my sensor by putting it my freezer and measuring the resistance
before and aft. Cold it should by very low resistance. I also removed the
valve connected it to ground and put it over a glass jar and running the
starter and observing it. This test also will show you if it leaks when not
operating. Be very careful when performing this test.
The "Putz"

-----Original Message-----
From: Russ Wolfe [mailto:russella@prairieinet.net]
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 6:27 PM
To: type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Cold Start Valve/Rough Idle @ Warmup

On Wednesday 07 November 2001 14:39, Jim Adney wrote:
> On 7 Nov 2001, at 9:46, jim wrote:

> The CSV ONLY works when it is cold enough AND the starter is
> running, so it would not help your rough running problem. It only
> serves to make the engine easier to start in cold weather.
> > Is there any way for me to test the EM Valve and/or the switch?  I
> > assume they were disconnected because either the valve or the switch
> > were causing problems.  Maybe it was running at all temperatures and
> > making the car hard to start or ruining the fuel economy?
> If you put 12V across it it should click. There are many reasons for
> them to get disconnected. The fact that someone cut off the wires
> only means that they really didn't understand what they were
> doing, or what the CSV really did.
I have disconnected every CSV on EVERY FI T-3 I have ever owned...........
AND, I know what they do. My '71 doesn't even have a hose hooked to it.
Unless you live in Alaska or upper Canada, they are not really needed if the
engine is properly tuned.
> > While I'm at it, I figure I would test the engine temp sensors as
> > well.  Any tips for getting the 3/4 cylinder sensor out?  Should the
> > wire be removed first?  My sensor is recessed and I cannot get an open
> > end wrench down there (it's about an inch down and the hole isn't much
> > wider than the sensor).  I don't want to yank the wire if it shouldn't
> > be removed.
> There is no reason to remove it. You can test it installed. The wire
> is permanently attached at the sensor end, but ends in a connector
> on the wire end. The connector plugs into a plastic body that is
> part of the FI wiring harness. Just unplug it there and measure the
> risistance from the sensor wire to engine ground.
> If you have to replace it, the tool of choice is a tube spanner, kind
> of like the OE lug nut wrench, but with a 13mm opening. In a pinch,
> you can use an open end wrench from below, sneaking it just
> under the cooling tin "shelf" there.
You CAN get this sensor out with an open end wrench if needed from above the
valve cover underneath the car. But, there was a special socket made that
a slot in the side to clear the wire.
But as Jim says, you don't need to remove this sensor to test it.

Russ Wolfe
'71 Fastback AT
'66 Fastback MT (IT RUNS)

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