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Re: [T3] Cold Start Valve/Rough Idle @ Warmup

On 7 Nov 2001, at 9:46, jim wrote:

> As it is getting colder, my car has been idling rougher.  I looked in
> my engine to find that my electromagnetic (EM) valve (cold-start) is
> completely disconnected.  There is a cut wire coming from the wiring
> harness near the valve with electrical tape so I am assuming the
> previous owner disabled this -- and only drove in warm weather!  Even
> once the car warms up it still runs rough.  However, if I let the car
> warm up with a drive for about 5 minutes (it's not very cold out yet)
> then turn the engine off and restart it, it runs/idles great.  I'm
> guessing an element doesn't engage if the ambient temp is warm enough
> and/or is having problems stopping once the engine is warm enough.

The CSV ONLY works when it is cold enough AND the starter is 
running, so it would not help your rough running problem. It only 
serves to make the engine easier to start in cold weather.

> Is there any way for me to test the EM Valve and/or the switch?  I
> assume they were disconnected because either the valve or the switch
> were causing problems.  Maybe it was running at all temperatures and
> making the car hard to start or ruining the fuel economy?

If you put 12V across it it should click. There are many reasons for 
them to get disconnected. The fact that someone cut off the wires 
only means that they really didn't understand what they were 
doing, or what the CSV really did.

> Also, the electrical connector is missing for the EM Valve.  It is a
> two prong connector with one wire from the switch and the other to
> ground.  Are these easy to find or fabricate on my own?

You can make your own from 1/8" & 1/4" push on connectors.

> While I'm at it, I figure I would test the engine temp sensors as
> well.  Any tips for getting the 3/4 cylinder sensor out?  Should the
> wire be removed first?  My sensor is recessed and I cannot get an open
> end wrench down there (it's about an inch down and the hole isn't much
> wider than the sensor).  I don't want to yank the wire if it shouldn't
> be removed.

There is no reason to remove it. You can test it installed. The wire 
is permanently attached at the sensor end, but ends in a connector 
on the wire end. The connector plugs into a plastic body that is 
part of the FI wiring harness. Just unplug it there and measure the 
risistance from the sensor wire to engine ground.

If you have to replace it, the tool of choice is a tube spanner, kind 
of like the OE lug nut wrench, but with a 13mm opening. In a pinch, 
you can use an open end wrench from below, sneaking it just 
under the cooling tin "shelf" there.

Jim Adney
Madison, WI 53711-3054

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