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[T3] my pertronics is dead

<x-charset iso-8859-1>interesting!
            here is a run down of a couple of dizzys ive got in my box in
the celler. 311 905 205 g vaccume advance only not the one i fitted .
311 905 205q the one i had fitted till today.
311 905 205t vacume advance and retard mechanical also (72?)
071 905 205 vacume advance and retard mechanical also hall sender ignition
fitted bosch no ends 007.

i have other dizzys all starting with 1 and all pulled from t1 and 2 in my
younger days.

the 205 g and q dizzy vacume only advance came fitted to 67 and 68 european
twin carb T series engines the 68 is presently fitted as it has the locating
blocks for the irs engine bracket.
     it seems were into a bit of a carb thing here with less cars in europe
being injection there are bound to be differences in markets.
     i may have come across as a little slapdash in my fitting of my dizzy
and the timeing thereof however it has took me years to realise the fact
that just because a book says 7 btdc it aint allways gonna be spot on that
way the most important thing is all in advance for me so long as i dont go
over 30 32 all in im ok.
        this is the way i do it i set it static with a bulb as per any
manual start her up allways fires fist time never had it any other way warm
her up stop the engine connect my strobe with tacho and advance check that
im not exceeding the magic 30-34 all in . disconect my strobe and with a 10
mm spanner in my teeth go for a drive feel my car how is she does she feel
good feel the slight fluff in low revs then i retard it a little (turn
clockwise) drive again happy no still fluff then zoom bit more retard
clockwise drive happy? now its gone a bit flat so give it just a smidge of
advance (anticlockwise) drive perfection!!!

      then go back to my garage and check all in advance again under the
magic no all is well i may or may not look at the static timeing but over
the years ive seen some oddball readings yet the cars drove like beuts and
so long as you dont go over 34 all in then no damage should occur.

     the reasons to do it like this for me i have arrived at when allways
being unhappy following some manual to the letter dizzys change my cam is
not original i have 87mm cylinder etc etc etc all these minor differences to
an engine affect how it should be timed and you may do quite some damage by
sticking to what static timeing it should be in a book

    sometimes i drive around for weeks with a 10mm spanner in my mouth i
like the taste.

   that all said i put my 009 back in today with points and condenser and
timed it quickly it only took me 2 hours of driving!(i squirted loads of oil
into it last night then let it drain ) the hesitation is less and my temp is
back down ive got something funky going on with my advance by vaccume only
dizzy im gonna stick it back in tommoro and take a long hard look at it all
and see why.

  i remember real german 009s that never had any hesitation mayby the bob
weights in the newer ones are covered in burs and stick or the spring rates
are not quite correct in the brasilian guys.

   at the scrapyard today i was just browsing i noticed a wasser boxer
engine with a hall effect dizzy this one had a small vacume can on it unlike
the 071 905 205 setup i have from my t4 cu engine there was a rod sticking
out of the top of the case i might go and pull it for a bit of testing

     i will be fitting the hall effect dizzy i have at the moment soon to
see how that works but for all its faults as it stands the 009 is working
for me at the moment i have to keep in mind that the fuel in my tank at the
moment is over two months old and has sat i cant wait to fill with fresh 98
ron optimax to see if this has any bearing on the whole situation.

     thanks for reading sorry im a bit long winded tody i find this ignition
game all bloody good fun.

neil verdon 66 sqr on irs pan
best among equals rise to the top.

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