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Well the on the work I performed, I used junkyard parts. I am in the process in finding replacement top bearings from a bearing manufacturer. I do not need these new ones anymore but I will do it to prevent future hassels with my car as well as other peoples. the first thing I will look for is a bearing of the right type for arms that are still in good shape or have been rebuilt with hard chrome sleeves from a machine shop. there several ways of doing this. This is only the top arm I know about:: 1. Chrome/sleeving arm rebuilding for new bearing. 2. machine down and chrome arm to put over size bearing. 3. Machine down for plastic bushing, bushing found at plastic bearing manufacturer or made by an industrial machine shop. 4. Very thin plastic or metal bushing installed tight on the arm and plastic or brass bushing with internal grease ridges installed over that. Bushings made in a machine shop. Arm not machined 5. Complete Brass or plastic bearing/bushing/thrust bushing made as one piece over plastic sleeved or metal sleeved or machined arm surface. 6. Or do everything expensive and best is to rebuild arm with hard chrome, buy correct bearing, and machined brass thrust bushing or replacement real thrust needle bearing. For premium fix, it would cost probably a couple a hundred bucks or more for each arm. The inner bushing may be machined out of plastic or brass. I do not have one of these on had so I do not know much about it. Maybe Jim can measure the bushings he may have on had and post it I have measured all of the parts I have out: the thrust bushing, bearing and arm. If anyone needs the bearing, bushing or arm mesurements . These are not very precise as far as my micrometer is concerned. I'm probably just dreaming and brainstorming. got no money and already fixed my top arms but I will look up machining/rebuild/manufacture and part number prices as I have the oportunity. By the way the part number of the bearing is: VW number 311 401 305 and INA number F-3a-8910 made in germany. 20 mm wide, 35mm inner diameter and 44mm outer diameter. By the way, the bottom bearing and seal for the bottom arm are available from Rocky mountain motor works parts. They are back ordered anyhow . I have to wait for those. I have ordered, 23 bucks each, two lower ball joints from CHIRCO PERFORMANCE. I understand that the upper ball joints have offset adjustable studs. These adjust for camber according to the Bently manual. Why can't the lowered suspensions use this to correct their camber. After my fix I have not adjusted my camber and sometimes it feels funny on sharp turns. I will correct this when I replace my bottom ball joints. I get the impression that you think I have extensive experience on this , I really don't, as of this weekend I have learned how this is built. I am just a guy that pretnds to know it all by nitpicking and analyzing everything to death, sometimes to adnausiaum. I study all of my possibilities and research sources, write them down for self info. I may spend weeks researching tiny unimportant things . I do this at work everyday for my my specialty in electronic systems. I am an experienced brainstormer, that's all. I will inform the list as I find data from my sources. This way all type 3 people will know alternatives. I am flattered that you offer webspace for me. I can foreward you something in the future. I have too much info and brainstorm compiled. How do you want me to organize the top arm fix. By quality, by lowest cost, by symplicity ? Too many ways to fix this. This way I can organize my scatter brain ideas without collaging. LEON MARTINEZ 1969 SQUAREBACK EFI/AUTO SAN DIEGO AND TIJUANA -----Original Message----- From: Erkson, Toby [mailto:toby.erkson@intel.com] Sent: Monday, May 14, 2001 8:11 AM To: 'Leon Martinez B.' Subject: RE: [T3] Suspension fixed was rotted needle bearings Many more T3s are gonna need detail work like this -- I know mine will. If you can document, in detail (materials used, costs, etc.), what you've done along with the successes/failures you will be providing a very valuable FAQ and reference sheet for future generations. If you need web space I will provide it for free on my site. Toby Erkson air_cooled_nut@pobox.com <-- Please use this address for email '72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L, Berg five-speed '95 VW Jetta III GL 2.0L, P-Chipped, Jamex sport suspension Portland, Oregon, http://www.icbm.org/ >-----Original Message----- >From: Leon Martinez B. [mailto:martinezl@icanet.com.mx] >Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2001 11:35 PM >To: type3@vwtype3.org >Subject: [T3] Suspension fixed was rotted needle bearings > > >I fixed the top part of my suspension. >Found top needle bearings so corroded >that the needle rollers looked >like very small peices of crooked >wood on one bearing. The other bearing >was so bad that several rollers seemed >to have disappeared, the others fell >out of the bearing when I washed it >in solvent. The roller bearing retainer >was almost all gone. The two arms were >so bad that the bearing area looked bumpy >with a deep bumpy groove...I will try >to find replacement and report these to the list, >this may be the only action I will actually >take. If I only had a machine shop, >The parts I would make, and the money ! > >Driving more pleasurable now. > > >LEON MARTINEZ > >1969 SQUAREBACK EFI/AUTO >SAN DIEGO AND TIJUANA ------------------------------------------------------------------- List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org