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Re: [T3] pressures (long)

> Does 35 deg max advance sound a little advanced to anyone else?

I don't know what to say, it is a stock dist. and brand new advance from Jim
A...  It is 0 at idle.  It was measured with my neighbors strobe timing
light which has a little dial to check the advance.  How would I lessen the

>.  And if they were fouling up rapidly, suspect the
> condensor or a bad cap or rotor.

All three are new, but you're right I'm not worried about the points.

> > > Regulated voltage up where it should be (~14-14.6V @ cruising rpm)?
> Do check this one carefully.

I just did, is 13.7V good enough?  THIS MAY BE IT!!??

> While it's running uneven, you should really notice a big rpm drop when
> unplug a working cylinder.  Especially if you are running on only 2 or 3
> the first place.  At each cylinder unplug at two places (but 1 at a time):
> at the dist. cap and at the injector wiring connector.

I have only been unplugging the injector, does this make a difference?  I
will try again. (sigh)

> Not sure, but maybe sticky injectors.  Test them out.  Pull an injector
> assembly and put the tips into a wide-mouth jar.

I have thought of this also, but if it runs fine when warmed up....?.I will
try it some time.

> > ohms) I discovered
> > that injector wires 2 & 3 were switched, correcting this made
> > no difference.
> Really?  2 and 3 are on opposite sides.  Sure it wasn't 1/2 or 3/4?

I'm sorry I meant 3 and 4 (I always think it the firing order)

> You might also check for high resistance between the FI trigger point
> connections on the harness (the two outer sockets of the 4-socket plug)
> the injector connections on the harness.  You want to see no more than
> 2-3 ohms I think.  I believe you need to do this with the key "on".  You
> should be able to do 2 injectors at a time.  Then turn the engine 180 deg
> and measure the other two.  One of the outer sockets of the trigger point
> connector talks to one pair of injectors, and the other outer socket talks
> to the other injector pair.  But the visual injector check described above
> will also verify that this all works I guess..

Not sure what you mean here, do you mean the 3 plug connector on the actual
points to the injectors?  If so, I did check them, they were less than 0.5
ohms.  Why would the key have to be on for this?

> Have you looked at temp sensor resistances?  Check them both cold and
> up.  Resistances should decrease with increasing temp.  See your manual
> the values.

Did this, and the numbers were consistent with the Bosch FI manuel.

> It's also possible that the pressure sensor could be screwey.  I think the
> only reliable way to test is by trying another one.  You need the 68-69
> part.  Less likely I guess is the brain, but don't jump to that conclusion
> just yet.

Yes, the pressure sensor and the brain are what scares me because they are
the only parts that I don't really understand or know how to test.  But with
the cold rough running problem, wouldn't the pressure sensor affect all
cylinders the same?

> Did you make up that pressure gage?  I had fun with mine a few weeks ago.

I bought a new one and wouldn't you know it, we have a half dozen gauges
around here and they all read different.  My brother is testing the new one
with another new one at his shop.  If they agree, I will trust it.

Barry Viss
'68 Square

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