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RE: [T3] pressures (long)

> (coming up soon) also checked dwell(sort of) and
> advance.(35deg)  Spark
> looks okay but pitting points say coil could be a problem(?)

Does 35 deg max advance sound a little advanced to anyone else?  Where is it
when idling warm?  Should be 0 deg.  And you really should check the dwell
carefully with a meter.  Some pitting is no big deal and I don't think it is
your problem anyway.  And if they were fouling up rapidly, suspect the
condensor or a bad cap or rotor.

> > Regulated voltage up where it should be (~14-14.6V @ cruising rpm)?

Do check this one carefully.

> engine is cold it
> runs very uneven: sounds like one cylinder is having problems
> but I can't
> for the life of me figure out which one.  And yet the plugs
> are identical.
> I have unplugged injecters one at a time many times but I
> can't quite get it
> with just my ears. It happens at all RPM's while cold.  My

While it's running uneven, you should really notice a big rpm drop when you
unplug a working cylinder.  Especially if you are running on only 2 or 3 in
the first place.  At each cylinder unplug at two places (but 1 at a time):
at the dist. cap and at the injector wiring connector.  While it's running
unevenly, if you get no change when you unplug something, you are closer to
solving the problem.

> warmed up, then it is smooth as silk. It is also smooth for
> about 2 seconds
> immidiately after starting, which would point to... mixture?
> injectors?

Not sure, but maybe sticky injectors.  Test them out.  Pull an injector
assembly and put the tips into a wide-mouth jar.  Unplug the ignition wire
to the coil (you don't want any sparks here), and have somebody crank the
starter over while you watch the spray pattern when the engine is cold.  You
want to see pretty, conical spray patterns out of each injector.  Be careful
here!  Keep a fire extinguisher handy.

> ohms) I discovered
> that injector wires 2 & 3 were switched, correcting this made
> no difference.

Really?  2 and 3 are on opposite sides.  Sure it wasn't 1/2 or 3/4?
You might also check for high resistance between the FI trigger point
connections on the harness (the two outer sockets of the 4-socket plug) and
the injector connections on the harness.  You want to see no more than about
2-3 ohms I think.  I believe you need to do this with the key "on".  You
should be able to do 2 injectors at a time.  Then turn the engine 180 deg
and measure the other two.  One of the outer sockets of the trigger point
connector talks to one pair of injectors, and the other outer socket talks
to the other injector pair.  But the visual injector check described above
will also verify that this all works I guess..

Have you looked at temp sensor resistances?  Check them both cold and warmed
up.  Resistances should decrease with increasing temp.  See your manual for
the values.

It's also possible that the pressure sensor could be screwey.  I think the
only reliable way to test is by trying another one.  You need the 68-69
part.  Less likely I guess is the brain, but don't jump to that conclusion
just yet.

Did you make up that pressure gage?  I had fun with mine a few weeks ago.  I
attached a 10' length of fuel hose to it, hooked it up, and drove around the
neighborhood a little bit with the hose running from the back of the car,
along the outside, and with my son holding the gage in his lap.  That was
the only way I could think of to watch the pressure under different driving

-Mark Fuhriman

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