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On 31 May 2001, at 22:48, Peter Legault wrote: > While I had the problem I had directly hooked up the relay to an > ignition connection on the fuse block and disconnected the wire to the > Aux. Air regulator. I had also unhooked and plugged the air line from > the breather to the A.A.R. The AAR is an air valve that lets in more air when the engine is cold and then closes off as the AAR warms up; the AT AAR is electrically heated and that is what that wire is. If the engine is running well and tuned properly, the effect of all this is supposed to be to keep the idle speed ~constant during warmup, but it's not a perfect system. > Upon fixing the relay I have run a new wire to the A.A.R. > suspecting a short as the wire had heated up with slight melting. That sounds like a good idea because otherwise a short would blow the fuse which also serves the fuel pump, which would leave you stranded. > When I fixed the relay I hooked the AAR air line back up and all works > but shortly after a somewhat temperamental startup the engine surges > and idles kinda rough. After warm up the engine smoothes out a bit but > still not normal. This evening I have again disconnected the AAR and > again plugged the air hose and it seems to run better. There's no harm in that, and in a moderate climate you may not even notice much of a difference. The AAR really comes into play when it gets COLD, meaning -30 to +30F. > My question is does this idle problem directly stem from this device > and how do I test it. For now it is disabled. Connect the wire and start up the engine cold. Remove the hose from the AAR to the air cleaner. Blocking off the AAR air inlet with your thumb should cause the idle to slow down, and you should feel a vacuum on your thumb. If you do the same test on a warm engine (with the AAR wire connected) you should not notice any change in idle speed since the AAR should be ~closed. You MAY feel a bit less vacuum on your thumb. You can also disconnect the AAR wire and measure the resistance thru the AAR to ground. I don't remember the correct number, but I suspect that you should get 20-30 Ohms. You could also do this test from the fuel pump relay end of the wire to verify that you don't have a short any more. - Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711-3054 USA ------------------------------------------------------------------- List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org