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A while back I mentioned cracking heads that I had experienced
on some new ones. Well I like to drive very fast (75-90 mph) and force
my engine to perform so I tuned up my EFI balanced my engine and 
performed some EFI and some spark tricks ( adding monster coil,
torquemaster plugs, Electronic ignition, more fuel pressure and
adjusted pressure sensor  more on the rich side. 
I even shift my autotranny like a stickshift (I have always done
this with auto detroit monsters, its fun) 
Well this stuff
improved my zoom but something was missing, it did not feel
as speedy as It should but was quite fast. Well some dude
on this list said that my total advance should not be 23 or 24 
and that this would cause some overheating. I installed a temp 
gage to see how much heat my heads were getting, I documented
it and thought the values were correct for me and even
posted this on this list.  When I left my autotranny in first gear,
I found the engine hesitated after 32 miles an hour in
second gear the engine hesitated just after 50 miles an hour.
Advertized, these trannys should downshift at 65 and stay in 
until 75 mph and without an unbalanced crank. The hesitation 
should not exist. I just thought that the speed cutoff and 
the power was typical of aircooled engines since this was my
first. Low power and overheating was just something to live
with when going stock, (did zoom good anyhow).

Well this weekend I used a timing light 
to check my timing, It checked out ok at 5 degrees but I remembered
about the guy who mentioned "total advance", well I procceded to 
manually accelerate my engine  pretty high 4000-5000+ rpm and
it did not feel right so I checked the engine with a timing light
and found that at 5500? rpm (hesitating) my timing only advanced 
two degrees. What the blazes was going on, I had a good vacume 
advance and always oiled my centrifuge advance. Well I proceeded
to tear down my distributor into itty bitty peices. The most difficult
part to tear down was the cam assembly shaft (where points open and
close) This assembly should be loose and must move freely with ease
but the shaft was stuck. To remove this assembly I had to remove
that little felt plug on top and spend a half hour extracting the ring clip
that held it in place using two micro screwdrivers. I could not 
slide the assembly out so left the distributor in gasoline for two hours.
As I waited I found that the vacume advance assembly, that moves the 
the points to a higher timing number, was stuck with grease that was stone.
My diaphram was good, it moved its shaft when vacume applied but
I never verified that it actually moved points. Later I was able to pull
the assembly out and found that it was corroded together and probably
has not moved years before I got the car. I cleaned the corrosion on
both ajoining sliding peices. I proceeded to carefully inspect the 
EFI points and assembly and found that the dist had a leather wiper
for the EFI cam and it had absorbed corrosion, this can grind my EFI
cam down. I also found that the EFI points were a little slow in closing ,
gummy grease in the points hinge keeping the rpm down. After I put the dist
back together the engine zoomed up very smoothly as fast it could
go ,6000 + ? , with no load. It gave me very good advance up to 22
percent as per the Bently manual. This morning I drove my car down the 
Freeway and took off from stoplights, my car felt like a speedy sportscar.
It now has that Porsche feeling.
I am so happy that I finally got more zoom in my car. My car runs
faster, heads are 25 to 50 degrees cooler and I think my gas mileage
will be even better if I tweek the fuel mixture on my pressure sensor
back to the way it should be.

Sidenote: Someone rearended my car yesterday with their truck and took off,
they broke one of my reverse lights, does anyone have one of these around
you can sell me?



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