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Re: [T3] Dead Injectors Puzzler

On 7 Jan 2001, at 22:58, Mark Fuhriman wrote:

> Oh! Oh!  I remember that now.  So tonight I ran out, started the car
> (started right up on all 4), drove around a while, and then let it
> sit on the driveway and idle.  Within a half hour, it was running on
> just 2 and 4.  Unplugged one at a time 1 and 3 to find them both not
> firing.  Verified spark on all 4.  

Okay, here's another thought:

Replacement injectors, even Bosch, come with connector prongs 
that are a couple of thousandths of an inch thinner than the 
originals. I have seen problems with the old female connectors not 
being tight enough to make good contact with new injectors. If the 
contact is poor the connector itself can warm up and loosen even 

Here's how to check them: Pull the connector off the injector and 
pull back the rubber cover. On the face of the white connector body 
there is a cutout along one edge of the slot for the pin. If you stick 
a thin wire in there and press toward the female connector body, 
you can depress the little tab that locks the connector in the body. 
I use a filed down piece of 1/16" welding rod for this. Do this and 
then pull out gently on the wire. Properly done the connector will 
slide out easily.

Do this one injector at a time so you don't get the wires mixed up.

Take out both connectors and then check the fit of each one on the 
injector pins. They should be snug. If either is loose, squeeze it 
VERY CAREFULLY to just tighten them up a tiny bit. The danger 
is in squeezing too much. A medium sized pair of pliers will give 
you more control than a small pair.

When you're done, use a straight pin to push the locking tab out a 
bit and then push the connector back in the body (locking tab 
facing the release cutout.) It does not matter which wire goes on 
which side of the connector body.

Jim Adney
Madison, WI 53711-3054

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