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for your reading enjoyment.. i just thought this was kinda odd.
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Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 20:38:16 -0800 (PST)
From: bloodshotvw <bloodshotvw@yahoo.com>
Subject: Fwd: my "invention"
To: low40hpvw@aol.com
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66 factory sunroof beetle
water is for drinking not for cooling engines.
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Reply-To: "Suleman Ishaq" <suley1@engineer.com>
From: "Suleman Ishaq" <suley@cyber.net.pk>
To: <bloodshotvw@yahoo.com>,
<thom@vintagebus.com>
Subject: my "invention"
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 21:45:05 +0500
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<DIV><FONT size=2>
<DIV><FONT size=2>
<DIV>okay fellas...</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>here are the details of the system I designed but first some
history...</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Pakistan.....Flintstones....no new stock VW alternator available,
illiterate ppl, incompetent ppl,,,,,(list of adjectives goes on...), hoards of
substandard parts, crappy rebuilds and workmanship....result?? u end up pushing
ur car everyday...</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I will mention the following terms in my rant..</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>generator= stock Vw generator/alternator which should have been in the
engine</DIV>
<DIV>alternator= an alternator of new Japanese cars (usually from a Toyota or a
Suzuki)</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>(wherever I say generator it means stock generator of VW and alternator
means a new alternator of some Japanese car)</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>the original generator of trusty is shot since god knows when..the PO had a
new alternator installed in the engine after welding a metal bracket to the body
of the generator...this is the most common setup with VW owners here for the
reasons quoted already...</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>now the original generator only turns the fan and the new
alternator takes care of the electrics... this is what is done to most of
the bugs in Pakistan as no new original generators/alternators are available and
u know about the authencity of rebuilds by Pakistani shops..</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>however this setup adds another pulley to the system which now has THREE
pulleys instead of the original two ( the crank pulley, the generator pulley now
turning only the fan and the new alternator pulley) the three pulleys
are arranged as follows:</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>New alternators pulley---------------------> o</DIV>
<DIV>Original fan/generator pulley------------>o </DIV>
<DIV>Crank pulley--------------------------------> O</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>this system has a BIG demerit as now there are three pulleys involved and
the middle pulley ( that of the original generator, which is now driving the fan
only) has its arc of contact with the belt reduced...in my case it was no more
than 30-45 degrees as against 180 degrees in the stock setup...this causes
the belt to slip on the middle pulley, even when it has been tightened to the
limit at the new alternator, resulting in overheating of the engine especially
at high rpms....</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>to tackle this I had a brain wave....</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I had a custom designed double pulley made...this is for the original
generator...the original pulley is in two pieces as u know and I had only the
outer (rear most) half of the pulley remade such that it had another V
belt groove in it...the original dimensions of the stock pulley half
this new half will replace were machined to drive the original belt as if
nothing had changed...now I have installed the stock belt on the "original"
groove to drive the fan and tighten/loosen it with shims as it was designed to
be...a second belt (small one in my case a 19 inch belt) would be now used to
drive the alternator from the fan (original generator) pulley....this belt will
be tensioned by the adjustable bracket and hold down strip mechanism similar to
what most Japanese cars use these days....every pulley will have the proper
tension now...</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><CATCH 1></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>what should be the diameter of the double pulley I want to have made??? the
groove driving the belt from crank to fan (generator) will have the same
dimensions as of the stock pulley but what about the new groove which will drive
the alternator???</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV></CATCH 1></DIV>
<DIV>the diameter of the new groove in the pulley half I had made was calculated
so as not to disturb the drive ratio and retain as it was while the alternator
was being driven from the crank pulley directly by involving the three pulley
setup...so the new two belt system will be involving the same drive ratio as it
was and there would be no problems with the speed of the alternator and charging
efficiency...remember, if the pulley is made too small the alternator will run
slow and not charge sufficiently...if it is made too big, the alternator might
spin at excessively high speeds resulting in damage to windings due to
centrifugal force... I can send u the simple formula to calculate the speed of
pulleys if u r interested...but at this time i am refraining from it to avoid
maths...( but it is not so simple to apply that formula in this case when the
pulley speeds are unknown)</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><CATCH 2></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>constraint: space in the engine compartment...to accommodate the
"thicker" pulley half on the generator and relocating the alternator to its new
position (more towards the deck lid no) to have the pulleys aligned with
the new pulley groove which itself will be closer to the engine lid...</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV></CATCH 2></DIV>
<DIV>I have been successful in fitting everything into my 1968 1300
bug with a 1200 engine without any hacking, welding, or modifications done to
the car except for some welding on the original generator body to install
the new alternator bracket and to make provision for the new alternator hold
down strip...this was accomplished purely on trial basis and I was lucky to get
it right the first time....there is no way I can think of to measure the space
between the closed decklid and the fan pulley...But no dud when I close the
engine lid....shining a torch from underneath with the rear engine tin removed
shows ample clearance from the pullies to the engine lid....could not see the
top part of the alternator but rotated the alternator with hand using a
loooong fan belt which was slipped onto the alternators pulley and was hanging
down the engine compartment no scrape scrape....there is clearance
present....</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I had another idea which I scrapped....to install a second pulley on top of
the crank pulley ( like I have seen in magazines which are used to drive
superchargers) and drive the new alternator with it with another belt while
driving the fan with the original pulley and belt setup....but this has a
demerit....</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>if the belt now driving only the fan breaks, there will be no way to know
about it until u fry up the engine...however if the second belt driving the
alternator breaks, u will come to know as the idiot light will light up...
second, I will have a chronic problem of fitting in the new alternator to be
aligned with this pulley in the space starved engine compartment...</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>with the setup I have designed, the idiot light will come on if any of the
two belts break....both ways the alternator will stop functioning causing the
light to come on....</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>now that I can retain the Japanese alternator, I can have a higher capacity
alternator installed to support those HUGE halogens I want to install...no more
constraints on the power from the alternator...</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>tested the pulley setup and drove for about 35 Km in a stretch...no
problems at all....</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>now for the demerit of the system I have designed...the new pulley is
heavier than the original one and might reduce the mileage a bit..it is not VERY
heavy but certainly heavier than the stock since it is made of steel and has
more metal in it for the tow pulley grooves.....however this should not be the
cause of concern...the stock belt which has the load of the fan, the heavier
pulley half and the alternator on it might have its service life
shortened....but that can be cured with a stronger aftermarket belt or
installing a v belt with teeth in it..</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>for the inquisitive, where did I find a machine shop which can replicate
the curves and cuts of the original pulley???( u know what machine shops
are like here) Well a machinist who does odd jobs for our company! he charged me
well but did the work satisfactorily....the new pulley cost me Rs 300 about US$
5...</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>this setup is GOLD for all those in countries where Vw stock alternators
are not available they should note that this can be done...gone would be
the days trying to push start ur car!!</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>if u need the technical specs then HONK!!! but be ware I might charge
royalty for disclosing that :o) !!!!</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>all inputs, comments and constructive criticism are invited.....</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Suleman (Overworked with the JOB but still thinking VW)<BR>'68 Bug
(Trusty)<BR>Pakistan<BR></DIV></FONT></DIV></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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