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RE: [T3] which welder?


I have used the Hobart Handler 110V welder before, very nice, compact
welder.  I personally have bought a "chicago electric" brand welder from
Harbor Freight once, and I don't recommend them at all, super cheap cost,
but I got what I paid for.  I now have a Sears Craftsman mig welder (can't
remember the model number, maybe when Toby E. gets up he can add to this -
same model on left coast), and it's one of the best budget welders I've ever
used.  Toby can probably also give tips on choosing a welding class - I took
one in high school, but the rest is hands-on experience.

Whichever model you choose, here are a few tips to help you get the most for
your bux.  MAKE CERTAIN THERE IS A GOOD RANGE OF ADJUSTABILITY!!!!!  Clear?
Nothing's more frustrating than dropping $300+ on a mig welder to do
bodywork, and then discovering that the 4-position voltage selector doesn't
allow you to do what you want.  The lower 2 positions on the Chicago
Electric welder should have been labelled "burn holes" and "barely arc",
because that's what they did.  The Hobart has a 4-position voltage switch if
I recall, but it's got much better control of wire speed.  The Craftsman,
and for that matter, the higher-dollar Miller and Lincoln welders has
variable  adjustments for both voltage and wire speed - not a switch that
"might" get you the right voltage.  The theory is, if you're a really good
operator, you get the settings close and make fine adjustments on a similar
workpiece to get the machine set perfectly.  I'm not that good. ;-)  I
usually don't have the patience for that, so I weld a little, adjust a
little, weld a little, adjust a little...  If you plan to do more than just
mild steel, make certain that you can use gas with the welder.  I haven't
tried the gasless wire yet (I prefer to use the shielding gas), but in order
to weld aluminuim you'll need pure argon and possibly an upgrade to your
wire feed system.  Keep that in mind when planning your budget for this.

I haven't had any problem with flexibility on the Craftsman.  What I mean
is, I have done some welding on my rear bumper on the Suburban (3/16 thick)
and so far, the welds are fine.  I've also welded up holes in an old t-3
alternator belt cover (~22 guage) just to see if I could.  There's a fine
combination of skill and luck when you're welding up holes in thin stuff
like that.  It amazed me that I was able to weld in something that thin.
Gotta move real fast to keep from blowing holes in it, but there are some
tricks...  I've made or collaborated on several welding projects here at the
house, and you should be wary of steel you get at Home Depot, Lowe's, etc...
Even though it's labelled "weld steel", most of their steel has some plating
on it that makes welding difficult.  It splatters, and leaves big voids in
your welds, and if it's galvanized - it's poisonous.  Their prices are also
astronomical - it's well worth it to find a REAL "metal store" in your area.
3 feet of 1 inch square tubing is 10 bucks at HD, and it costs ~18 dollars
for a 20 foot length at the steel distributor, plus there's no coatings on
it.  Convenience often rules, though, so be ready to grind off the coatings
before you weld on it.

Boy, that really turned into a rant, eh?  Hope this helps.

Jake Kooser

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