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I have used the Hobart Handler 110V welder before, very nice, compact welder. I personally have bought a "chicago electric" brand welder from Harbor Freight once, and I don't recommend them at all, super cheap cost, but I got what I paid for. I now have a Sears Craftsman mig welder (can't remember the model number, maybe when Toby E. gets up he can add to this - same model on left coast), and it's one of the best budget welders I've ever used. Toby can probably also give tips on choosing a welding class - I took one in high school, but the rest is hands-on experience. Whichever model you choose, here are a few tips to help you get the most for your bux. MAKE CERTAIN THERE IS A GOOD RANGE OF ADJUSTABILITY!!!!! Clear? Nothing's more frustrating than dropping $300+ on a mig welder to do bodywork, and then discovering that the 4-position voltage selector doesn't allow you to do what you want. The lower 2 positions on the Chicago Electric welder should have been labelled "burn holes" and "barely arc", because that's what they did. The Hobart has a 4-position voltage switch if I recall, but it's got much better control of wire speed. The Craftsman, and for that matter, the higher-dollar Miller and Lincoln welders has variable adjustments for both voltage and wire speed - not a switch that "might" get you the right voltage. The theory is, if you're a really good operator, you get the settings close and make fine adjustments on a similar workpiece to get the machine set perfectly. I'm not that good. ;-) I usually don't have the patience for that, so I weld a little, adjust a little, weld a little, adjust a little... If you plan to do more than just mild steel, make certain that you can use gas with the welder. I haven't tried the gasless wire yet (I prefer to use the shielding gas), but in order to weld aluminuim you'll need pure argon and possibly an upgrade to your wire feed system. Keep that in mind when planning your budget for this. I haven't had any problem with flexibility on the Craftsman. What I mean is, I have done some welding on my rear bumper on the Suburban (3/16 thick) and so far, the welds are fine. I've also welded up holes in an old t-3 alternator belt cover (~22 guage) just to see if I could. There's a fine combination of skill and luck when you're welding up holes in thin stuff like that. It amazed me that I was able to weld in something that thin. Gotta move real fast to keep from blowing holes in it, but there are some tricks... I've made or collaborated on several welding projects here at the house, and you should be wary of steel you get at Home Depot, Lowe's, etc... Even though it's labelled "weld steel", most of their steel has some plating on it that makes welding difficult. It splatters, and leaves big voids in your welds, and if it's galvanized - it's poisonous. Their prices are also astronomical - it's well worth it to find a REAL "metal store" in your area. 3 feet of 1 inch square tubing is 10 bucks at HD, and it costs ~18 dollars for a 20 foot length at the steel distributor, plus there's no coatings on it. Convenience often rules, though, so be ready to grind off the coatings before you weld on it. Boy, that really turned into a rant, eh? Hope this helps. Jake Kooser ------------------------------------------------------------------- List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org