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Re: Spark plug


On 28 Dec 2001, at 17:40, Herman Haustein wrote:

> I'd recommend, if you pull the head, not to go with the helicoil as
> this is at best a temporary fix. Rather have a machine shop do inserts
> - if you can have both heads done go to 3/4" thread.

The 3/4" dimension is the LENGTH of the thread and there just isn't 
that much metal there. The SP hole is crammed right in between 
the 2 valve seat inserts, so increasing the diameter to 3/4" (even if 
there was such a size) would weaken the head too much (it's 
already weak there.)  

I really dislike the solid inserts as they tend to come out every time 
you change plugs, so they aren't nearly as good a fix. They also 
have a shoulder on the outside which the plug seats against. This 
is in the primary cooling path for the heat flow out of the plug. 
Changing the thermal resistance along this path effectively alters 
the heat range of that single plug.   

The Heli-coil inserts wedge themselves in there and won't come out 
unless terribly abused. The amount of abuse that this takes is 
MUCH more than a normal, unrepaired, SP hole should be 
subjected to.   

All this assumes that the Heli-coil is properly installed. It should be 
recessed 1/2 turn below the outside surface, with no extra material 
projecting into the combustion chamber.   

I have one engine (about to be replaced) with a solid insert. It is an 
annoyance EVERY time I have to pull that plug. I have a couple of 
engines  with Heli-coils in them. I know they are there because I 
installed them, but I've forgotten exactly WHERE they are because 
they never call attention to themselves.  

Sorry, but I just really don't like the solid inserts. Many mechanics 
do, but I believe it is just because they are easy to put in. That 
gets the car out of the shop, but it starts a chain reaction of 
annoying incidents for years to follow.  

-
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************

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