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Hey Neil- > hello > i plan on a cr above 9:1 as i will be ok here in germany running 98 > ron and i have to go high on cr to match the 163 web cam i have .500 lift @ > 284o quite a big cam! I don't think it'll be the octane rating that kills ya (98 RON is about the same as 93 R+M/2 in the US). One of the big weak points of the stock T4 is the sealing area between the heads and cylinders. > this cr is not easily achived using dished top pistons but i might do > a mok look at where it could be set at its highest! with my hardly worn > factory rebuilt 94.5mm . That's why you want the flattops! Gotcha. I have dished on my 2.0, but then again, I have 914 2.0 heads that were slightly flycut (rebuilding purposes only) and only wanted 8.5:1. Those heads start out at about 57cc from the factory, and I *think* that your heads start out at about 60cc. > ive allready got a set of the web lifters to go with the cam there > solid lifters and have a good reputation you should have no problem seeling > your new unused ones Webcam is nice - because they're new and in the box, I'm selling them back at a 20% loss for restocking... that's it! > i like doing the sunday morning valve adjusment thing > too much to run hydros and the state of the cam that came out was a worrie > it was mashed up bad!!! thats a common problem for t4 hydro tappeted > engines. The stock VW T4 tappets have flat tops to them. I have NO idea why they did this, but they didn't radius them one bit. THAT is why they go flat. FWIW, I've pulled apart solid lifter stock T4 engines and found the same flat cam... It's the radiusing that helps, not necessarily the solid vs. hydro. The preference on solid vs. hydro for non-high revving engines is different for all... pick your flavor. > cro moly pushrods are not stock im using them to stop flex with this > largish cam im using. Groovy. > the european 914 flat top 94mm pistons should be @ a cr of 8.5 out of the > box so when you remove the shim between cylinder and head @0.6mm thick your > gonna be getting quite a high cr anyway (just gueing at the minute as i dont > have a set to do a mock deck ing set up) they are flat top mahle from csp > here in germany . Very groovy. Just make sure that you don't mash your valves into your piston... Side story: I have had one problem with hydro lifters. Basically, I followed the adjustment procedure in the Bentley - two turns in from no clearance. I've since realized that this spec sucks - 1/2 turn or so is FINE. Otherwise, you'll hold open a valve! And I did. My #3 intake was held open, allowing the seat to drop. The point I was trying to make was this: I have dished pistons, 0.035" deck height at the edge of the piston, and only 0.430" lift, but my held open intake valve did leave a small mark on the piston top. Make sure with 0.500" lift and flat pistons that your valves have room... > im going into my celler today with my scales that are acurate to 1 gram > to weigh a few things up ! > a nice conversion is to get the rods bushed from a 24mm wrist pin to a > 22mm and use t1long stroke pistons 94 mm in the original cylinder they are a > lot lighter and a lot less geld than t4 ones . Aye, true! > my varient is receiving new x/drilled discs as a point of interest > before this engine goes in in the interests of safty dont you know!!! Very nifty! On my Ghia, I'm just now finally upgrading from the stock setup (which isn't bad). I have a 911 master cylinder (not sure if I'm going to use it... it has the SAME cylinder size... but it was new and free :-), and will buy larger rear cylinders (stock is 17.46mm, so 19.05mm or the T3 22.20mm would be nice) and ceramic-insulated carbon/kevlar brake pads and shoes. That should do me fine... at least for now... Where'd you get the cross-drilled discs? Are they a bolt on item for the T3, the Ghia, or none of the above? Take care, Shad ------------------------------------------------------------------- Search old messages on the Web! Visit http://www.vwtype3.org/list/