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RE: [T3] engine internal stuff

My comments below.
   Toby Erkson
   '72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L, Berg five-speed
   '95 VW Jetta III GL 2.0L, P-Chipped, Jamex sport suspension
   Portland, Oregon, http://www.icbm.org/

P.S. Please keep comments directed to the list and DON"T include me.
Obviously, if I get the email then I'm on the list and I don't need the
duplicate emails.  Just a heads up, thanks :)

>-----Original Message-----
>>  Rings  Mahle 
>Not bad.  If you want to fork out a little more money, you 
>could spring for Deves rings, but the benefit, especially on a somewhat 
>short-lived 2332cc engine, may never be seen :-) 

What about Total Seal?

>>  Oil  5-30W winter/30W summer 
>...Use a good 20w50 
>conventional oil or a good synthetic oil.  I've found that 
>Mobil 1 15w50 actually absorbs heat BETTER than conventional oils.  In
>it does so well that your oil temperature rises (I saw about 30F average 
>increase)... and, if you understand the temperature dependence on oil
>you realize that this isn't too good!

So what are you saying?  Is synthetic good or bad in your opinion?  There is
quite the debate about synthetic vs. conventional here so expect flak.
Personally, I prefer synthetic :)

>...but I'm sceptical of the large viscosity range (i.e. there are 
>significantly more VI additives added in there that can break down...). 

But with a pure synthetic oil this ISN"T an issue!

>>  Compression  8.2:1 
>...higher compression ratios run COOLER due 
>to better efficiency and gas mileage.  Less gas burned for a 
>given amount of power output means a lower temperature... 

But higher compression creates heat simply due to COMPRESSION.  I'm not sure
I fully agree with your thoughts about this.  I would need to investigate

>>  Ignition Bosch 050 dizzy, Blue coil, 8mm wires, W8ac plugs 
>But, you should use a dual-advance distributor.  Either fork 
>out $250-300 for a fully-adjustable Mallory unit (aircooled.net is the only
>that carries them) or make your own from old Bosch parts for cheap.  You
>obtain a fully adjustable canister from a 36hp engine... or from me - I
>over 10 of them stockpiled :-) 

So, how is such a dual-advance dizzy cheaply made?  Care to share? :)

>Coil is nice.  If you add a CDI module of some sort (Universal 
>Tiger 581, MSD, Mallory, Jacobs, etc.), you can increase your gap and give 
>yourself a slight boost in gas mileage and a pretty big one in cold-morning

Not to mention more torque.

>Whose wires are you using?...

I talked to one of the Berg boys about two/three years back and he was
running STOCK Bosch spark plug wires on his dragster.  Claimed the size
didn't matter, were readily available, and did the job perfectly.  Go

>>  Carburetion Dual 40mm Dellorto 
>Perhaps a bit small.  Consider 45 Dells or 44 Webers.  Also, 
>what RPM band are you shooting for?  That'll determine your venturi size...

Well, thanks to the super short intake manifolds we gotta use under our
decklids, having large throats ain't always good since the intake velocity
goes down, reducing atomization of the mixture as well as the amount.  True
on the rpm band vs. venturi.  Of course, going FI would be a FAR BETTER
route ;)

>>  Flywheel 200mm Stock VW 
>Consider lightening the flywheel, especially considering the added weight
>the counterweighted crank.  It won't change a dyno reading, but it'll help
>to accelerate quicker (kinda like getting alloy wheels over steel)...

But if it's gonna be on the street more than the strip then shifting will be
a PITA if it's lightened!  I know from experience (however, my
double-clutching techinque was greatly improved :)

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