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Re: [T3] engine internal stuff

Hey Brian- 

>  Displacement 2332cc 
>  Crank 84mm Bergmann 

I'm not familiar with the Bergmann crank.  Is this a one-piece forging, 
one-piece casting, or a welded crank?  Stay away from one-piece castings... 

Also, I'm guessing that it is counterweighted, right? 

>  Rods Scat I-beam VW 

What does "VW" refer to - journal diameter, rod length, or both? 

What length ("VW" would mean 136mm/5.354")?  I-beam is pretty good... but 
H-beam is better, lighter, and not too much more expensive. 

Also, what size rod journals ("VW" would mean 55mm/2.165")?  I have never built 
an 84mm crank Type 1 engine myself, but you may want to look into how much 
clearancing is required to fit that stuff in there!  I would much sooner step 
down to a Chevy rod journal (50.4mm/2.000") than significantly weaken that 
already weak Type 1 case.  While the VW 2.0 rod journal (a.k.a. "Porsche", at 
50mm/1.968") would be nice, it's a bit harder to find cranks and rods for 

>  Pistons  94mm Mahle 


>  Rings  Mahle 

Not bad.  If you want to fork out a little more money, you could spring for 
Deves rings, but the benefit, especially on a somewhat short-lived 2332cc 
engine, may never be seen :-) 

>  Cam  Engle 120 

NEVER use Engle cams!!!  Once you step away from the preaching of Gene Berg, 
you quickly realize that they are poorly made cams.  They have a high rate of 
failure (i.e. they go flat often!).  What other engine builder anywhere in the 
automotive industry (except top fuel dragsters where tons of cash for a 5 
second ride is needed) breaks in their cams before installation AND still has 
many go flat? 

For the best cam available, point your browser to www.webcaminc.com.  Webcam is 
simply the best, and they can even custom grind anything you want.  And, to top 
it off, they only cost $80 no matter what Type 1 grind you want.  Laurie Dunlap 
knows what she is talking about - she is very knowledgeable! 

>  Lifters Scat 

Ask Laurie Dunlap about this one.  Here's the deal: most lifters in the 
automotive world are NOT flat!  They are radiused where they ride on the cam 
(on the order of a 30-40 foot radius or so - very slight).  VW, however, made 
theirs flat.  Result?  Look at a Type 4 - it is common to have flat cams 
straight from the factory due to flat lifters.  However, if you use radiused 
lifters, then the problem goes away even with more radical grinds! 

I know that is the case for the cylindrical-lifter Type 4.  As for the 
mushroom-lifter Type 1, I'm not as positive.  Call Webcam and ask them. 

>  Oil  5-30W winter/30W summer 

How cold is winter? 

Don't use striaghtweight oils - they're OLD technology.  Use a good 20w50 
conventional oil or a good synthetic oil.  I've found that Mobil 1 15w50 
actually absorbs heat BETTER than conventional oils.  In fact, it does so well 
that your oil temperature rises (I saw about 30F average increase)... and, if 
you understand the temperature dependence on oil viscosity, you realize that 
this isn't too good!  I've also found that Valvoline 20w50 full synthetic runs 
at a much more normal temperature.  Although I have not tested it myself, I 
know people that have run Quaker State 5w50 with good temperatures, but I'm 
sceptical of the large viscosity range (i.e. there are significantly more VI 
additives added in there that can break down...). 

>  Oil Cooler 72 pass Mesa w/ fan 

Are you going to run a stock doghouse or Type 4 oil cooler inline with this? 

>  Heads  CB Perf. 044 Magnums 
>  Valves 42x37.5 Stainless Steel 

These guys are known to crack... while a great deal for the cost, they're not 
the best thing around.  For excellent street heads (i.e. something that still 
has all of the stock cooling fins and is designed to be driven, not just 
dragraced), get some from Performance Technologies (Fred Simpson).  
Aircooled.net carries them. 

>  Rockers VW german rockers w/chromoly pushrods 

Get the spacer kit for the rockers - it's cheap.  Also, remember - when you 
have chromoly pushrods, adjust your valves to 0.001" cold because the gap gets 
LARGER as temperature increases, not smaller as with stock aluminum pushrods. 

>  Compression  8.2:1 

Sounds good.  Just don't go to Mexico to buy gas!  Stick with premium gasoline 
and you'll be fine.  Don't go much over 8.5:1.  All of that "6.9:1 for 
longevity" stuff is BS unless you have really bad gasoline - if you think about 
it, as long as your gasoline can keep from predetonating (i.e. need good gas) 
and your engine from getting compression leaks over time and/or falling apart 
(which is why you stay below 8.5:1), higher compression ratios run COOLER due 
to better efficiency and gas mileage.  Less gas burned for a given amount of 
power output means a lower temperature... 

>  Ignition Bosch 050 dizzy, Blue coil, 8mm wires, W8ac plugs 

I wouldn't use that distributor personally.  If you want one, let me know: I 
have one brand new (it came in a semi-assembled shortblock I purchased) you can 
buy from me. 

But, you should use a dual-advance distributor.  Either fork out $250-300 for a 
fully-adjustable Mallory unit (aircooled.net is the only one that carries them) 
or make your own from old Bosch parts for cheap.  You can obtain a fully 
adjustable canister from a 36hp engine... or from me - I have over 10 of them 
stockpiled :-) 

Coil is nice.  If you add a CDI module of some sort (Universal Tiger 581, MSD, 
Mallory, Jacobs, etc.), you can increase your gap and give yourself a slight 
boost in gas mileage and a pretty big one in cold-morning starting. 

Whose wires are you using?  Any decent aftermarket set should do except Nology, 
which is convenient because they want $175 for that hunk of junk :-)  Also, if 
you like stereos, stay away from copper core wires. 

I personally recommend either using NGK Copper plugs or Beru Silverstone plugs. 
 The former is nice, sparks well, is cheap, and can be found somewhat easily.  
The latter is nicer, sparks slightly better (has a slightly wider natural heat 
range due to Silver), is expensive, and is somewhat difficult to find.  The 
advantage is that with the silver ones, put on some anti seize and stick them 
in there for 50,000mi. and you'll never have to reach into the dark corners of 
the engine compartment to change plugs for a LONG time :-)  Believe it or not, 
this is one thing Nology is good for - they carry Beru Silverstones for $8/ea. 

>  Carburetion Dual 40mm Dellorto 

Perhaps a bit small.  Consider 45 Dells or 44 Webers.  Also, what RPM band are 
you shooting for?  That'll determine your venturi size.  As for Dellorto versus 
Weber, people can argue they like one brand or the other.  The fact is that 
they're most similar to 6 or half a dozen.  The people tend to favor whatever 
is harder to find!  When Webers were hard, people liked them over Dells.  Now, 
Dells are hard, so people like them over Webers.  And, 48IDAs are hard, so 
people like them over the newer, smaller, and better 48IDF design.  Go 
figure... but, one thing for sure: it is easier to find Weber jets and 
replacement parts than Dellorto now :-) 

>  Exhaust Custom Tri-Mill w/turbo muffler and stinger attached 


>  Flywheel 200mm Stock VW 

Consider lightening the flywheel, especially considering the added weight on 
the counterweighted crank.  It won't change a dyno reading, but it'll help you 
to accelerate quicker (kinda like getting alloy wheels over steel).  Also, what 
kind of pressure plate and clutch plate? 

Also, you gotta dynamically balance the whole shebang... :-) 

>  Horsepower est. 153 @ 5,200 

Curious - what'd you use to estimate that?  Is that based off of dynoes of 
other similar engines? 

Take care, 

> -- 
> Brian--1964 Notch Speedster 2332cc 
>        http://www.geocities.com/menacefye/invasion.html 
>        Parma, Idaho: Home of the 2002 "Type 3 Invasion" Aug. 17th and 18th 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------- 
> Too much? Digest! mailto:type3-d-request@vwtype3.org Subj=subscribe 

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