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Drew, Your system should not be rough durng hot idle or miss on the freeway runs. If on the freeway you have that push/ pull feeling , it maybe simply dirty injectors that need cleaning with injector cleaner in a full tank. If the injectors do not clean, take it to an injector shop for cleaning. I think there is a place on the internet that is called "The Injector Shop " ,I hope that is the right name, I heard they do outstanding work They can clean you injectors for a few bucks each. You must mail it to them though or you can buy new ones from Bosch or rebuilt ones from Bret instruments. If you are sure that your injectors are perfect and you cables is definitely bad then you can replace every connector inside each connector plug and even the connector plug itself. I have sent several old and recient e-mails on this. The connector pin inside the plug comes with one foot of wire when you buy it from the dealership , all you have to do is give them an example of one and they will either give it to you on the spot or order it for you , You can do this for the plastic connector case if they are too roasted to reuse. To remove a connector from the plug , You need to push a lock pin inside with a needle or pin, this is easy to do. If you want the nice Rubber cover ends VW no longer has them, West Coast metric has these, I think, or you can get it from a Mercedes, Volvo or Porsch dealership, you just have to mention the correct model that came with the D-jetronic fuel injection. I did this. What i am saying, you do not need to replace the harness but you can replace all the cable ends connectors and rubber boots essentially you would be refurbishing your old harness little by little with parts , a soldering iron and lots of GOOD quality 3M electrical tape. I did this and it was simple. I did one part each weekend until my harness looked very respectible, not new or factory looking but very respectible. You remove wire and pin from each connector using pin or needle and keep track which wire went on which hole, then install new pins and connector and slide new rubber boot on this new connector assembly, cut old wire at desired length, keeping track which wire goes where, use masking tape and a pen to do this. Put a small sleeve tube on each new wire to cover new soldered connection. Solder new wires to the old ones, keeping track of what wire goes in which connection . slide sleeve over soldered connection and then use lots of electrical tape and spiral it from the newly refurbished plug all the way to the old wire and make sure this looks nice and neat. Do this when all wires in plug are soldered and sleeved. The "frankenstiening" I mentioned is for experimenting and modifying for more performance. There is no documentation or parts you can buy at the autostores it just takes knowledge and experimenting. It all depends what you need. For example : If your engine was built up way beyond 1700 cc and you did not wat to increase the fuel pressure too much for obvoius reasons (hoses blowing up, beyond injector's capabilties (40lbs ???) , you would try to install the blue injectors (they sometimes look green to me) from big Porsche D-jetronic engine or Mercedes, or Volvo. Yes these are the same cars that have the same rubber boots as our cars. This is good to a little over 3 liter four cylinder (if that exists) Your EFI capacity would go up but would probably require you to modify your non adjustable pressure sensor to become adjustable. This way you can adjust for correct mixture. You can also swap the other brand cars brains and components to your car and see what works . This is what I meant by frankensteining in this later case this would be experimental frankenstiening. I frankensteined my pressure sensor and it works better (for me) than any ready made one, at least for me and I made it adjustble for correct mixture. Original new off the shelf (non adjustable) are a little too lean for me, I like to adjust some pep into mine, just like adjusting a carb. It all depends what you want and if you have much patience, but to do this you must study and understand how each component works, identify a bad part, know how everything works together and why. After studying how everything works you can visualize everything working and in what condition. You become an expert of your own system. Experience comes from experiencing problems or disasters or you can e-mail the people with experience. My system is bone stock except the frankensteined pressure sensor (VW,Volvo and Mecedes parts), and my motor is stock 1600 with low compression (105 to 110, used to be 75 lbs). You cannot tell from the outside of this component if it was frankensteined. I have plans for modifing my EFI with odd ideas like a dash mounted fuel mixture adjustment with analog fuel mixture meter, a power valve similar to a big carburator but using frankenstiened D-jetronic components, modified cooling system , etc etc.. and all of these are easy to make but I will let you know what is the outcome of this. First study on this art and know it inside and out then optimize your system then experiment ...etc then you will know what you are doing when frankenstiening parts from other car models and manufacturers and still have a stock looking system. Some people may roll their eyes and disagree with me but at least it is a fun hobby that burns time and money. Need lot of patience though. LEON MARTINEZ 1969 SQUAREBACK EFI/AUTO SAN DIEGO AND TIJUANA ------------------------------------------------------------------- List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org