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Re: [T3] Carbs vs FI "frankensteining' (and rewiring)


Drew,

Your system should not be rough durng hot idle or miss on the freeway runs.
If on the freeway you have that push/ pull feeling ,
it maybe simply dirty injectors that need cleaning with injector cleaner
in a full tank.

If the injectors do not clean, take it to an injector shop for cleaning.
I think there is a place on the internet that is called "The Injector Shop "
,I hope that is the right name, I heard they do outstanding work
 They can clean you injectors for a
few bucks each. You must mail it to them though or you can buy 
new ones from Bosch or rebuilt ones from Bret instruments.

If you are sure that your injectors are perfect and you cables is definitely
bad then you can replace every connector inside each connector plug and
even the connector plug itself. I have sent several old and recient e-mails
on this.
The connector pin inside the plug comes with one foot of wire when you buy
it from the
dealership , all you have to do is give them an example of one and they will
either give it to you on the spot or order it for you , You can do this for
the plastic 
connector case if they are too roasted to reuse. To remove a connector from
the 
plug , You need to push a lock pin inside with a needle or pin, this is easy
to do.
If you want the nice Rubber cover ends VW no longer has them,
 West Coast metric has these, I think, or you can get it from a Mercedes,
Volvo
or Porsch dealership, you just have to mention the correct model that came
with the D-jetronic fuel injection. I did this.

What i am saying, you do not need to replace the harness but you can replace
all the
cable ends connectors and rubber boots essentially you would be refurbishing
your
old harness little by little with parts , a soldering iron and lots of GOOD
quality
3M electrical tape. I did this and it was simple. I did one part each
weekend until
my harness looked very respectible,  not new or factory looking but very
respectible.
You remove wire and pin from each connector using pin or needle and keep
track which wire went 
on which hole, then install new pins and connector and slide new rubber boot
on this
new connector assembly, cut old wire at desired length, keeping track which
wire 
goes where, use masking tape and a pen to do this. Put a small sleeve tube
on 
each new wire to cover new soldered connection. Solder new wires to the
old ones, keeping track of what wire goes in which connection . slide sleeve
over
soldered connection and then use lots of electrical tape and spiral it from
the newly
refurbished plug all the way to the old wire and make sure this looks nice
and neat.
Do this when all wires in plug are soldered and sleeved.


The "frankenstiening" I mentioned is for experimenting and modifying for
more 
performance. There is no documentation or parts you can buy
at the autostores it just takes knowledge and experimenting.

 It all depends what you need. For example : If your engine was
built up way beyond 1700 cc and you did not wat to increase
the fuel pressure too much for obvoius reasons (hoses blowing up, beyond
injector's
capabilties (40lbs ???) , you would try to install the blue injectors (they
sometimes
look green to me) from big Porsche D-jetronic engine or Mercedes, or Volvo. 
Yes these are the same cars that have the same rubber boots as our cars.
This is good to a little over 3 liter four cylinder (if that exists)
Your EFI capacity would go up but would probably require you to modify 
your non adjustable pressure sensor to become adjustable. This way you can 
adjust for correct mixture. You can also swap the other brand cars 
brains and components to your car and see what works . This is what I meant
by frankensteining in this later case this would be experimental 
frankenstiening. I frankensteined my pressure sensor and it works better
(for me) than any ready made one, at least for me and I made it adjustble
for
correct mixture. Original new off the shelf  (non adjustable) are a little
too lean for me, I like to adjust some pep into mine, just like adjusting 
a carb. It all depends what you want and if you have much patience, but
to do this you must study and understand how each component works,
identify a bad part, know how everything works together and why. 
After studying how everything works you can visualize everything working
and in what condition. You become an expert of your own system.

Experience comes from experiencing problems or
disasters or you can e-mail the people with experience. My system
is bone stock except the frankensteined pressure sensor (VW,Volvo 
and Mecedes parts), and my motor is stock
1600 with low compression (105 to 110, used to be 75 lbs).
You cannot tell from the outside of this component if 
it was frankensteined. I have plans for modifing my EFI with odd
ideas like a dash mounted fuel mixture adjustment with analog
fuel mixture meter, a power valve similar to a big carburator but using
frankenstiened D-jetronic components, modified cooling system ,
etc etc.. and all of these are easy to make but I will let you know
what is the outcome of this.

First study on this art and know it inside and out then optimize your
system then experiment ...etc then you will know what
you are doing when frankenstiening parts from other 
car models and manufacturers and still have a stock 
looking system. Some people may roll their eyes and 
disagree with me but at least it is a fun hobby that 
burns time and money. Need lot of patience 
though.

LEON MARTINEZ

1969 SQUAREBACK EFI/AUTO
SAN DIEGO AND TIJUANA


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