Re: [T3] Piss poor mileage

["Steve Glavas" <steveglavas@email.com>]

----- Original Message -----
From: Stan Schaefer <stans4@ix.netcom.com>
To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
Sent: Friday, May 28, 1999 7:50 AM
Subject: Re: [T3] Piss poor mileage


> An ignition switch shouldn't have anything to do with poor mileage,
> it's probably coincidental.  You could have  a charging system going
> bad, though, per Jim, low voltage causes a rich condition.
>
> Here's my drill though:
>
> Check the throttle position switch, since it's '71, you should be able
> to turn the ignition switch on and hear 20 clicks as you operate the
> throttle.  If you can't, check the switch contacts, a gentle cleaning
> with an eraser will help.  I've had wires inside break, too, easy to
> fix. IfliÓtch is OK and you still can't get clicks(injectors are
> firing), check the continuity of the harness to the control box.

Got the clicks
>
> The usual air leaks in the hoses and seals will cause a rich
> condition, usually, though, you can't get a good idle and that's a
> hint.  Pull a plug and see if it's really black.

Not really black, but light grey on the top electrode, tan on the inside
electrode, and a dark grey on the threaded part.  Gap is correct. (.024")

>
> You might have a leaky injector(or more).

How do I check this?
>
> The factory cloth-covered fuel hose will crack and you can't see
> where.  I've had it leak for a while without finding the leak, I've
> smelled gas, but it never dripped, the cloth covering wicked it away.
> The only way to check it is to ground the pump at the terminal in the
> back and visually inspect the covered lines from front to rear.  If
> you haven't replaced hose in a while, it might be the time to do it.
> Cracked hose will cause hard starting, too.  T3 flambe if you're not
> careful.

Replaced that two years ago with nonfabric covered stuff.  Have extinguisher
in car, too!  :-)
>
> You do NOT need a FI tester, a cheapie digital or analog volt-ohmmeter
> works just fine, they've had DVMs for $10 at Harbor Freight recently,
> no excuse to be without one.  Even a buzzer or light bulb with a
> couple of batteries will work for checking continuity.  The
> temperature sensors need to be checked with an ohmmeter, unless
> they're open, shorted or wildly off value, they probably are OK.

What should I measure?  How much?  I also don't have one right now.  Will do
once back in town.  Time to hit the road.  Wish me luck...  I'll be bringing
all my tools and spare gas (in the trunk).

Bye Guys!,

See you Monday night... You'll hear the rest of the story

Steve

'71 L7

-------------------------------------------------------------------
Too much? Digest! mailto:type3-d-request@vwtype3.org Subj=subscribe