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Re: [T3] brake job gone wrong

On 20 Mar 99, at 22:39, kevin gunter wrote:

> Nice weather here in Missouri today so I set out to do the front
> brakes.  Brake hose changes went well.  Tried to change the pads and
> couldn't get the pistons to seat and allow the pads to fit.  Is this
> because of corrosion in the caliper?  Should I try and rebuild or just
> replace them?

What did you do to try to push the pistons back in? How far did they 

My technique: remove the 2 caliper retaining pins and the anti-rattle 
spring, then use a large pair of channel locks to grab squeeze 
between one of the pad tabs and the body of the caliper to push the 
pad/piston outwards.

Then insert a pry bar between the old pad and the disk to force the 
pad/piston all the way out. Leave the old pad in place during all 
this to protect the seal around the piston. DO NOT try to pry 
directly against the face of the piston: You WILL slip and pinch the 
seal making a rebuild necessary.

Once you have forced both old pads/pistons all the way outwards, then 
you can pull the pads out, but be sure not to pull the piston 
retaining plate (anti-rotation plate) out. The new pads should then 
slide in.

Be sure to watch the level of the brake fluid in the reservoir as you 
push the pistons out. If the reservoir has been refilled with the pad 
worn, the reservoir will overflow when the pistons return to their 
original position.

New pads are almost always are too tight a fit in the caliper. I find 
that I have to put each one of them in a vice  and file off a bit of 
excess on the top and bottom edges to allow them to go in. They 
should be neither extremely tight nor loose at all. It's okay if they 
need to be lightly tapped into place, but if you hammer them in they 
will not be free to move and the braking will be uneven. They will 
not retract  remove your foot from the brake pedal and will 
drag on the disk and wear out rapidly.

Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA

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