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FW: [T3] Oil light on. Last send was a mistake.


Not sure if a stuck pressure relief valve is too common but a weak spring on
the valve might be.  Not sure how to check this other than replacing it
though.

Thank You,

Jason Renville
Jrenville@wafertech.com


> ----------
> From: 	oofacts@earthlink.net[SMTP:oofacts@earthlink.net]
> Sent: 	Tuesday, June 29, 1999 1:32 PM
> To: 	type3@vwtype3.org
> Subject: 	[T3] Oil light on. Last send was a mistake.
> 
> So my oil light has been flickering at idle lately. It's been hot here.
> Heat index of about 100.
> I just want to check that I'm not forgetting anything when I try to solve
> this prob this weekend.
> Been using Quaker State SAE 30 lately because my UnFLAPS decided not to
> carry Castrol anymore.
> My hoses from the heat exchangers to the fan ports crisped out at the
> connection to the exchangers (another relaible product from Bill and
> Steves)
> This happened last year, and I capped off the ports with soda cans. Not
> recoaæÊI know, but I cant find the right size hoses anywhere.
> Besides,
> this caused me no prob. last summer.
> Planning on doing a full tuneup AGAIN, valves, dwell, timing, compression
> test etc.
> Probably not it, but would a hot generator have any effect on the oil
> light? No, right?
> Given my lack of proper exhaust yet, would it be a decent preventative
> measure to use SAE-40? What if the temperatures even out again and I'm
> back
> to 70 degree mornings when I start the car. Will straight 40 be too heavy?
> Muir suggests checking the pressure relief valve. Now, the oil light
> flickers on at idle. And if I push the throttle a bit, it goes out. What
> are the odds of a stuck Pressure relief valve?
> Are there any places I might not know of that could be blocked passages
> for
> cooling air? (Outside of my soda cans.)
> Any suggestions would be welcome. This is all very frustrating. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Mike
> 72 Sqbk, 1600, dual Weber ICT 34s
> Brooklyn
> 
> 
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