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On 25 Jun 99, at 19:08, Forsman/Harris wrote: > Chris Swaffor wrote: > > "so how hard is it to replace the rear main seal in an engine." > it can be easy, though not usually. > "I heard you actually have to partially split the case" > No. But go slow, and be careful not to gouge the case. One trick I've > used is to take a hack saw blade and saw through the metal band that is > just inside the rubber on the outer ring. Once you've gotten past the > ring, it relieves the pressure, allowing it to come out easily. But > again, be careful. You don't want to saw through the ruber and into the > case. There is a tool called a seal hook, or remover that has a big claw that gets in there and just prys it out. It works very well once you understand what you're after. > "I have a good engine sitting in my garage with this problem." > > Hmm. I wonder about the "good engine" designation. What caused the > seal to go bad. High mileage? If so, there is reason to question the > goodness of the engine. Or, the front seal will go bad if it's not > getting any lubrication. I seem to recall that there'a a weep hole that > feeds oil to the seal, to keep it lubricated. If that's plugged, the > the lip of the seal will become dry and brittle and go away. Why? is aêËtž estion. Often it is just the seal, but sometimes it's a loose #1 main bearing leaving about 3mm of end play. These engines will never seal, and their demise is only a question of when, not if. The "weep" hole is where the oil exits that area. The oil enters that area when it spills out the forward side of the #1 main bearing. Still, never install any seal dry. You should always smear oil or grease on it and its mating part when you assemble it so it will not be destroyed by friction when you first start up. Jim - ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ------------------------------------------------------------------- Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe