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Re: [T3] Lowering and raising the suspension


you should also mark where everything meets with a cold chisel.  that way
you know where you started and how things were when you started. (i.e. which
spline you were on and where the plate met your transaxle)  just put it
where they meet and give it a whack.

Dan Hoopes
dan@ewed.net
'67 Square, "Stanley"
Provo, Utah

----- Original Message -----
From: Stan Schaefer <stans4@ix.netcom.com>
To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 1999 1:30 PM
Subject: Re: [T3] Lowering and raising the suspension


>%h#ways had to pull the trailing arm pivot bolts  to do this, 17mm
> allen wrench+3lb rawhide mallet.  On my square, there's not enough
> flex for the spring plate to clear the trailing arm.  Be careful of
> the brake lines.  You have to restake the pivot bolts when putting it
> back together or they'll disappear on you sometime.
>
> My torsion bars have always stuck when doing this, I've never been
> able to get both ends free at the same time, so I end up pulling the
> fenders.  This gives better working conditions anyway.  You have to
> have both ends free for fine differential adjustments.
>
> If you've got a general rear end sag, you'll end up doing both sides,
> there's no connection between the two bars.  Sometimes you have to go
> around more than once to get both sides the same.  The first time I
> did it, I had to disassemble/reassemble 3 times before it was close to
> being even.
>
> When putting the spring plate back in, I've always found it useful to
> use some longer bolts on the torsion bar pivot covers to temporarily
> hold things in place until the spring plate gets jacked up over the
> stop. Then replace them with the shorter ones.  Pneumatic tools help a
> lot there, too.
>
> On Wed, 21 Jul 1999 12:19:10 +0200, you wrote:
>
> >>HermanH=> how to raise the rear, do I have to adjust the torsion bar?
> >>
> >>
> >>Yup. It's not particularly difficult, but there's some work involved.
> >>The procedures are covered fully in the better manuals. Briefly:
> >Do I have to do this on both sides or does the torsion bar have a way of
> >evening it self out?and it is enough to do it on one wheel.
> >>Push the axle rearward to clear the spring plate.
> >I wasn't  able to do this because of the suporting arm to the Hub ass'y.
> >>Pull the spring plate outward enough to clear the frame stop. It'll flip
> >>  down, but not violently.
> >It seems to be very tightly fastened are you sure the spring plate can
move
> >on the torsion bar?
> >>Tap the torsion bar out of the spring plate. It's better not to
> >>  ٺ	] torsion bar all the way out, as this complicates the
> >>  situation.
> >do I have to open the covers in the body to get the torsion bar moved
enough
> >? these don't exist in my car they where covered with sheet metal.
> >>There are two torsion bars in the lower tube and a stabilizer bar on
> >>  top. Ignore the upper arms.
> >What about the limiter above the torsion arm it is also connected to a
> >torsion bar, what part does it play must it also be adjusted?
> >I'm also having trouble returning the torsion arm to its place there is
some
> >sort of ring inside it has to fit into.
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Steven Ayres <comwest@well.com>
> >To: type3@vwtype3.org <type3@vwtype3.org>
> >Date:  17  1999 16:42
> >Subject: Re: [T3] Lowering and raising the suspension
> >
> >
> >
> >-------------------------------------------------------------------
> >Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe
>
>
>


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